Thread: is it smart to blunt the edge of Norton Water Hones?

If you're talking about the Norton 4/8K, you need to lap it a lot to get the white side very smooth to hone razors. Other wise the surface is rough to the razor's edge. When you do this also round all the hard angles on the stone, the top edges and round the side edges also so the razor doesn't hit the edge which will counteract your honing.

I do it with all of mine regardless. It may not be necessary if there are no divots or chips to catch the edge but like Ben Franklin said, "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure."

Look at the video section of the Forum Stubear did a very simple Vid showing just how easy and minimal it needs to be...

This is not off-topic --- I also sand just a bit off the corners of my leather strops besides chamfering my stones.

Jerry

Originally Posted by Disburden

If you're talking about the Norton 4/8K, you need to lap it a lot to get the white side very smooth to hone razors. Other wise the surface is rough to the razor's edge. When you do this also round all the hard angles on the stone, the top edges and round the side edges also so the razor doesn't hit the edge which will counteract your honing.

Hmmm... Does this mean that the flattening stone for Nortons is too coarse? I just picked up one from Lee Valley for my 4000/8000 (the $28 flattening stone with diagonal slats) but the grit is coarse and I am worried that it will leave the surface rough. I should add that when I bought the hone it came lapped flat and smooth.

Should I take it back?

Originally Posted by Atchbo

Hmmm... Does this mean that the flattening stone for Nortons is too coarse? I just picked up one from Lee Valley for my 4000/8000 (the $28 flattening stone with diagonal slats) but the grit is coarse and I am worried that it will leave the surface rough. I should add that when I bought the hone it came lapped flat and smooth.

Should I take it back?

No, what Disburden is referring to is lapping the Norton in general. If not lapped properly (removing the rough texture off the 4k side, as well as the 8) the hone can do more damage than good.

If you bought the Norton flattening stone you should be okay. Many guys use them for their Norton stones and swear by them. As for a "pre-lapped" hone, I have a tendency to doubt it, especially from Lee Valley. I'd recommend lapping again just to be sure.

I have rounded the edge of all my stones except my shapton stones.

I don't know why I haven't rounded the edges on my shaptons lol maybe its because of the size, I actually didn't even realize I hadn't round them until this thread lol

Originally Posted by Ryan82

No, what Disburden is referring to is lapping the Norton in general. If not lapped properly (removing the rough texture off the 4k side, as well as the 8) the hone can do more damage than good.

If you bought the Norton flattening stone you should be okay. Many guys use them for their Norton stones and swear by them. As for a "pre-lapped" hone, I have a tendency to doubt it, especially from Lee Valley. I'd recommend lapping again just to be sure.

Thanks, guys,

My hone came from an online vendor (the perfect edge) and it was clearly smoother and flatter than it would have been from the store. I bought the flattening stone because I made some gouges in it trying to sharpen the carving set.

If you bought your Nortons from Howard at TPE you should be good to go. It's been a while since I've been to his site, but IIRC he did offer a lapping service at one time, probably still does.

FWIW, 98% of vendors do not pre-lap hones (especially Lee Valley), so you usually have to do it yourself.

I chamfer or round the edges of all my stones so that if i accidentally raise or lower the blade it doesn't come in contact with the sharp edge. I am in the (ounce of prevention group).