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Thread: What Hone to Buy?

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    Default What Hone to Buy?

    Hi everyone,
    I am newbie here just want to know is there just get one hone just to keep the razor sharp when i need to hone the razor.What grit do i need for the job at hand.

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    Although there are many here who know much more about hones than I do and can give better advice, you might want to check out the sections on "What hone... do I need" and "Barber's hones" in the Wiki.


    I got a barber's hone and it does a great job for touching up the razor. More than that will require more, but a barber's hone can keep a razor sharp for a very long time.

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    Well Shaved Gentleman... jhenry's Avatar
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    +1 on oldsCool's advice. A barber's hone will do a great job touching up a razor that has already been honed--and you haven't done anything to the blade.

    If you want to actually hone a really dull razor, the best, economical waterstone is the Norton 4,000/8,000. It's a good hone for somebody new to honing.

    If you want to try something more expensive get a set of Naniwa waterstones--5,000/8,000/12,000.
    "Age is an issue of mind over matter. If you don't mind, it doesn't matter." Mark Twain

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    This question comes up a lot.

    Normally, I tell new folks to try either Chromium Oxide or .5 diamond and do 10 no pressure X strokes when their razor starts to pull a little. This can be done to refresh your razor for a long time. When this quits working, then you can buy a finishing stone, which may be a barber hone, natural stone or any of the synthetics out there. Typically, 10 no pressure X strokes followed by 10 no pressure X strokes on the pastes or sprays will again refresh your razor for a very long time. Unless you know that you will be honing more razors, you can hold off purchasing stones until you really need them. Some folks just go straight to the finishing stone and that works fine for them.

    Have fun.

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    If I only had one hone in the world ..... what a horrible thought ...... it would be a Norton 4/8 combo. If the practitioner knows what they are doing, it will fill the bill for just about anything that comes down the pike .... with some exceptions. Welcome to SRP.
    mjhammer and donjcschilde like this.
    Be careful how you treat people on your way up, you may meet them again on your way back down.

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    Thanks to all for your great help if i did not find this site i dont think i would start using a straight razor.By the way i am going to get the Naniwa Combo Super Stone 3000/8000 hone.Just another question do i have to 'lap' both sides of the stone and which way is the best way to do this should i pay out more Money for a flatting stone or what?

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    Senior Member jaycey's Avatar
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    I started straight shaving January this year and reading as much as I could, I came to the conclusion that if I was refreshing a razor that had been well honed before then all I should need is a 8k.
    I got a Naniwa SS 8k and its been reading/research well done, you wont go wrong with a 8k

    P.S. I have just got a 1k and a bbw/coti combo...oh well it is a hobby after all, is it not!

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    Senior Member blabbermouth JimmyHAD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TeenageHandModel81 View Post
    Thanks to all for your great help if i did not find this site i dont think i would start using a straight razor.By the way i am going to get the Naniwa Combo Super Stone 3000/8000 hone.Just another question do i have to 'lap' both sides of the stone and which way is the best way to do this should i pay out more Money for a flatting stone or what?
    You should lap any honing surface periodically. So if it is a combo hone the answer is yes. It can be done with sandpaper on a flat surface, or if you have the disposable income to spare, a DMT D8C 325 continuous diamond plate is a good way to go. Good for kitchen and pocket knives too.
    Be careful how you treat people on your way up, you may meet them again on your way back down.

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    SRD Sells a Naniwa Lapping Plate (220 grit). Is that a good lapping plate? Can it be used for anything other than other Naniwa's? If I get one, is there a break-in process anyone knows should be done? I need to lap a C12K but would rather save the 20$ diff over the DMT. If that's what it takes, then ok, that's what it takes.

    Thanks mates!

    Mike
    Last edited by mjhammer; 09-03-2011 at 02:28 AM.
    ​-- Any day I get out of bed, and the first thing out of my mouth is not a groan, that's going to be a good day --

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    Mike, the 220 grit is good, but I have not used the Naniwa and dont know anything about it. Get some 220 wet and dry sandpaper, some water and a flat and smooth surface, you will be good to go.
    It is easier to fool people than to convince them they have been fooled. Twain

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