Thread: Swaty Sides and Grit Differences

Over the years, I've read a lot about the Swaty barber hones. Some old directions say the hone is two-sided, while most SRP members, myself included, say that personal experience proves otherwise. I've been reading a lot of old barber manuals lately, and I came across directions for the Swaty that I found interesting and that may shed some light on the subject.

Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual
Copyrighted 1900 by Frank C. Bridgeford

THE SWATY HONE.

This is comparatively a new product [comparing to the Belgian and German Water Stones]. It was invented by Francis Swaty, of Vienna, and is practically more in use now than any other used, and when in good condition it takes very little honing. I will give you instructions pertaining to the Swaty hone.

1.--The two sides of the alumine hone differ in roughness, the side marked with the firm is the sharper one.

***

5.--Should the rough side, by long use get too smooth rub it when dry with rough emery paper or with a flat piece of pumice stone and plenty of water.
6.--Should the finer surface by long use get too smooth rub it gently at first with fine emery paper.

Notice how he mentions in instruction 1. that the two sides differ in roughness, not in formula. Now, I could be reading this wrong, but according to this manual it seems that the difference in the Swaty's cutting power (coarse v. fine) is not created by two different formulas poured back-to-back as easily seen in the famous C-Mon, Dubl Duck, and Tonsorial Gem, but by a single formula and its differing textures (rough emery v. fine emery) as seen in the Spyderco fine and ultrafine stones.

This would explain our inability to distinguish a difference in performance between the two sides, since most of us prefer to lap our barber hones before using, and both sides are likely to receive the same lapping treatment (DMT 325, for example).

I don't own a Swaty anymore, but perhaps someone here could lap one side (rear) with 325 grit and the other side (front) with 1000g and report on the performance? I'd be very interested in the results.

Just a thought...

Thanx,
Christopher

I don't know about on the Swaty, but I remember different people getting different results off a Dragon's Tongue based on how high they took it in the lapping. I found the same; the rougher finish from the factory didn't give as fine an edge as after a lapping up through rubbing against a barber's hone, and the cut speed was faster when rough than smooth.

Black/translucent Arkansas stone work the same way. They hone differently depending on what degree the surface is lapped.

How to say this the right way

Please always keep in the back of your mind that although we often read old "Manuals" and "Literature" and refer to them as almost a shaving gospel...
These should also be preferenced with IMHO just as we do now when we write our opinions on here..

These Books and Pamphlets were the Forums of yesteryear, not saying they are right or wrong, but they are after all one man's opinion...

I have also read that the "Fine" front sides of Barber's Hones were often "Buffed" to a slicker surface then the back side at the factory, I however don't know if that is true or not...

Originally Posted by gssixgun

Please always keep in the back of your mind that although we often read old "Manuals" and "Literature" and refer to them as almost a shaving gospel...
These should also be preferenced with IMHO just as we do now when we write our opinions on here..

These Books and Pamphlets were the Forums of yesteryear, not saying they are right or wrong, but they are after all one man's opinion...

Oh, absolutely. I couldn't agree more. However, I'd still like to see the results of an experiment, and I may have to buy an old Swaty to satisfy my curiosity.

On a fun note to help illustrate your point, here is an excerpt from an old barbering booklet (1895) on razors, hones, and strops.

Russian leather and horse-hide are the Barber's old favorite strops. However, there are many new kinds of good leather strops, as follows: Kangaroo, porpoise, moose hide and wild boar hide are very highly recommended, and are sold by all Supply Dealers. To break in leather strops try the following course: If not already done, grind the grain side to smooth it down, soak in urine a couple of days, let dry a day, stretch on a board, fill with shaving soap, rub with bottle in the same manner as canvas, apply lead and rub until ready to use.

Christopher

I really want to try a porpoise leather strop now.

Originally Posted by Theseus

I really want to try a porpoise leather strop now.

Call me a 'greeny' if you want and I don't want to start and arguement, however, a porpoise leather strop is on my list of things I don't want to try.
I have too much respect for these wonderful creatures.
OTOH if we weren't supposed to eat animals - why are they made of meat?
Just my $0.02

Originally Posted by Havachat45

Call me a 'greeny' if you want and I don't want to start and arguement, however, a porpoise leather strop is on my list of things I don't want to try.
I have too much respect for these wonderful creatures.
OTOH if we weren't supposed to eat animals - why are they made of meat?
Just my $0.02

I think it was Denis Leary that said something about how it's only alright to kill and eat the ugly animals.

I've had several Swaty hones in the past and they were all pretty much the same on both sides...I never noticed a difference. I tried the buffering thing on one side and still didn't see much of a difference. I'm actually not a fan of a Swaty edge anyway, it's pretty rough for my thick beard..

I just snagged a pretty ugly looking Swaty off the 'bay, and I think it's restoration and preparation for use are a perfect time for this experiment. I'll visit back after I get it, hopefully with some pictures. I'll do the before and after thing, and once it is lapped to my satisfaction, I'll try rubbing the 'labeled' side on my 800, and only use the DMT325 on the 'clean' face. That should be a great answer to your experiment.

I'll post back later!!

Mike