Thread: Lapping coti/bbw

Thats my understanding. As far as I know the particles size remains the same, the way they are exposed does not. Jnats are a different animal though. Someone let me know if I am wrong.

What makes this confusing is that there are basically 3 types of stones we are all discussing here...

Waterstones = Man made and Naturals
Oilstones = Novaculite
Japanese waterstones

My experience has shown for Straight Razor honing that Waterstones it doesn't matter, for Oilstones (ie: CF and the like, and Arkies) it does make a difference but you get the best from burnishing the surface with and old round piece of steel than by lapping higher JMHO
And then comes the Japanese naturals which are all over the place and you have to learn your own stone....

I have used all my Coticules and Japanese Naturals without any lapping when I have first received them. I have never had a problem with any of them. Actually, the only lapping I have done on them has been when I dished them out from using rubbing stones to generate slurry. In those cases either the GDLP or the DMT 325 has worked fine and there has been no difference in the stone after the lapping at all.................yet.

I don't think I can dish out my Translucent even if I fired mortars into it.

Have fun.

111Nathaniel,

I use a DMT325 on all my Cotis & BBW.

I have noticed that the DMT leaves a much more polished surface than does 600 'grit' silicon carbide (SiC) paper.

By way of an experiment, I have used SiC papers of up to 2000 'grit' on the Cotis, and have not noticed any improvement in my edges.

Additionally, if you use a small peice of BBW or Coti to raise slurry on these stones, they will acquire a somewhat smoother finish after a while.

Again, I have not noticed any improvements in the edges when this happens.

Please note that this is for me, and may not be generally applicable !!

Good luck !

Have fun !

Best regards

Russ

yeah, if you use slurry stones you will polish the surface pretty quickly. if you have a separate bbw and coticule rub them together after you lap them.

I also use a DMT 325 for lapping my Coticules, and all my hones. Like stated above, if you really think it's not that smooth, use your slurry stone. That should be all you need to do.

I currently lap mine with a DuoSharp 220/325 (325 side), followed by a WetOrDry sandpaper progression of 1000-1500-2000-2500. It leaves the Coticule feeling smooth to the touch, and quenches the thirst of my dual personality's OCD.

Originally Posted by TZee

I currently lap mine with a DuoSharp 220/325 (325 side), followed by a WetOrDry sandpaper progression of 1000-1500-2000-2500. It leaves the Coticule feeling smooth to the touch, and quenches the thirst of my dual personality's OCD.

It's no point doing anything besides the DMT really, the slurry stone will polish the surface quickly enough anyway.

Originally Posted by Blix

It's no point doing anything besides the DMT really, the slurry stone will polish the surface quickly enough anyway.

There is benefit in doing it, although it may not be entirely necessary. Giving it a rub down with 1000 grit makes for a smoother surface. Some rub it down with the bbw side of a slurry stone or another Coticule.

Originally Posted by TZee

There is benefit in doing it, although it may not be entirely necessary. Giving it a rub down with 1000 grit makes for a smoother surface. Some rub it down with the bbw side of a slurry stone or another Coticule.

-But- is that slicker surface better, I think is the real question???

On this stone "The Coticule et al" are all about releasing/exposing garnets, as this is the backbone of the entire coticule, so is it actually better to have a slicker surface that would actually release/expose less garnets ????
This would be a concern on most of the Natural waterstones, see anytime you think you have it figured out another question comes along to make you question the whole thing again...