Thread: Lapping coti/bbw

Originally Posted by Theseus

So far novaculite is the only type of stone I've found that really changes it's honing characteristics depending on how high you lap it.

Do find it gets 'better' lapping on the higher side ? I've got some Arks but only fool with them when I'm sharpening pocket knives. I keep saying I'm going to try a razor or two on them but never find the time.

Originally Posted by JimmyHAD

Do find it gets 'better' lapping on the higher side ? I've got some Arks but only fool with them when I'm sharpening pocket knives. I keep saying I'm going to try a razor or two on them but never find the time.

Yes, for razors the higher you lap a black/translucent Arkansas, I've found, the better the polish on the edge. I've also found that they work better with harder steels.

Originally Posted by Theseus

Yes, for razors the higher you lap a black/translucent Arkansas, I've found, the better the polish on the edge. I've also found that they work better with harder steels.

I've got a translucent but haven't gotten a black yet. Maybe I'll force myself to give it a try on a razor. I usually use my washita and my soft ark to do the pocket knives. The translucent generally sits in the vintage Pike box looking pretty.

I agree about lapping the arks and CF's with higher grit. I usually go up to 1500 on them and then use a bbw. I like to use higher grits on jnats too, although I have never tested on lower grits so I cant say if it helps for sure. I have used as low as 325 on cotis and as high as 1500 and I couldnt tell a difference in the performance. I do use higher grits on my hybrid cotis, it just looks better without all the scratches from the lower grits, not sure if it actually helps tho

Perhaps the only effect is in the aggressiveness of the stone, the grit size remains the same but it cuts faster due to the rougher more exposed surface. Whereas a smoother stone with higher lapping polish has the same grit size but doesn't cut as fast. Lapping grit level cannot change the size of the abrasive particles right so all it changes is how they are exposed at the surface.

Thats my understanding. As far as I know the particles size remains the same, the way they are exposed does not. Jnats are a different animal though. Someone let me know if I am wrong.

What makes this confusing is that there are basically 3 types of stones we are all discussing here...

Waterstones = Man made and Naturals
Oilstones = Novaculite
Japanese waterstones

My experience has shown for Straight Razor honing that Waterstones it doesn't matter, for Oilstones (ie: CF and the like, and Arkies) it does make a difference but you get the best from burnishing the surface with and old round piece of steel than by lapping higher JMHO
And then comes the Japanese naturals which are all over the place and you have to learn your own stone....

I have used all my Coticules and Japanese Naturals without any lapping when I have first received them. I have never had a problem with any of them. Actually, the only lapping I have done on them has been when I dished them out from using rubbing stones to generate slurry. In those cases either the GDLP or the DMT 325 has worked fine and there has been no difference in the stone after the lapping at all.................yet.

I don't think I can dish out my Translucent even if I fired mortars into it.

Have fun.

111Nathaniel,

I use a DMT325 on all my Cotis & BBW.

I have noticed that the DMT leaves a much more polished surface than does 600 'grit' silicon carbide (SiC) paper.

By way of an experiment, I have used SiC papers of up to 2000 'grit' on the Cotis, and have not noticed any improvement in my edges.

Additionally, if you use a small peice of BBW or Coti to raise slurry on these stones, they will acquire a somewhat smoother finish after a while.

Again, I have not noticed any improvements in the edges when this happens.

Please note that this is for me, and may not be generally applicable !!

Good luck !

Have fun !

Best regards

Russ