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01-10-2012, 06:14 PM #11
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Thanked: 459No germ issues in a non-shared hone. The hone will dry pretty quickly and you'll be good to go each time you use it.
Don't do anything to the hone to sterilize, you may damage the stone matrix.
Some stones, you can boil without any issues (like oilstones), but I don't know if that extends to the PHIG. There are definitely artifical stones that are OK for a soak, but that come apart with heat.
In terms of the edge, a well settled-in chinese hone should leave an edge just as soft as a coticule but finer. It won't be so soft and fine with a slurry, though, thus my comments above about letting the surface stay polished and settled.
I would peg the cost closer to $40+, as the big hone at woodcraft is well worth having over a smaller hone that's less than the width of a razor blade. It makes honing as you would do it with a very slow cutting PHIG a lot easier, esp if you're doing circles, etc, with moderate pressure - it's really not nice to have the razor going over the edge with any pressure.
Maybe this page was shown a million times before I got here, I don't know (and I don't know or know who the page owner is), but it's instructive about what's going on with different stones. Pay particular attention to the smoothness of the edge in these pictures, more so than attention to the polish on the bevel. The two go together somewhat, but the polish on the bevel isn't what's cutting your hair. You can see how the shaptons polish is great, but there are undulations in the edge, which maybe explains why it can be uncomfortable to shave off of some of the synthetics.
http://www.tzknives.com/razorbevels.htmlLast edited by DaveW; 01-10-2012 at 06:21 PM.
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01-10-2012, 06:14 PM #12
- Join Date
- Jul 2011
- Posts
- 2,110
Thanked: 459A separate aside, if you're looking for a barber hone, why not buy a barber hone? They were designed to do just what you want to do, anyway.
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01-10-2012, 06:21 PM #13
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01-10-2012, 06:42 PM #14
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01-10-2012, 06:59 PM #15
Hello...
The hone first, I would say a 10k naniwa would be hard to beat as a finishing hone, though a 12k chinese is a good budget option. The jump from a 1k stone to a coti is very big and it would take a long time to polish the edge clear of the marks left by the 1k. If you have dinged the blade or otherwise blunted it my advice is get it sorted by a pro honer and then use a 10k/12k as mentioned above to maintain it.
Cheers!!
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01-11-2012, 01:50 AM #16
THAT is a good question. Most bacteria range in size from 0.2 to 2 microns wide and 1 to 10 microns in length.
Very small. Pores in most natural stones are going to be much larger than that. digging around on the web I found a LOT of articles on stone porosity and bacterial infiltration, it seems like a well-studied subject.
This article on Natural Stone Tiles is interesting: Natural Stone Tiles – The Confusion Surrounding Sealing | Las Vegas Asphalt & Striping 702-353-0026
Just type in "natural stone pore size" and have at it.
This is interesting to ME as a physician because I deal with pathogens on a daily basis, and the end result of people's interactions with them keeps me pretty busy. How do you sterilize surfaces? Chlorine works well in weak solutions, but may play hell on the stone's surface.
Heat. Just cook the things at or above 180 degrees, it's what we're told is required to safely cook pathogens out of meat. We sterilize instruments under pressure with steam heat in autoclaves (Autoclave - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia) at about 250 F for 15-20 minutes. Not too hard to do at home, and
stones of most every type can tolerate this kind of heat and moisture, especially ceramics.
Hope this helps.