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02-09-2012, 04:49 AM #1
what finishing hone should I buy?
Good day,
my name is Dan. I hone my razors on norton 4k/8k then I progress to Chinese natural 12k (thick slurry then thin the slurry and finally water for a total of about 400 strokes!) then I do a few laps on Chromium oxide pasted balsa strop, then 0.35 micron diamond on felt (don't feel this does much though unfortunately). and finally 60 laps on steerhide leather strop.
this gets my razors shave ready but not as sharp and smooth as disposable blades. ( I have tried Gillette nacet and feather and my straight razors are not that sharp).
I was wondering just how good are japanese natural hones (I know each one is different) but in general how much sharper can you go with a Nakayama asagi as opposed to the chinese 12k? then there is ofcourse the problem is with my cnat being extremely slow I don't even feel progress as the blade gets sharper.
I looked at some of the hones at thejapanblade.com and I am thinking of getting a stone but I am not sure yet.
how about eschers? are they much better than my current finishing lineup? I am trying to get to the sharpness level of a "feather" disposable blade.
how about coticules? I heared they are very versatile stones but versetility is not exactly what I am looking for right now I need a good finisher. I read somewhere that their "grit" is 8000 and with slurry it goes down to about 5k. on paper 8k is not high enough of a finisher.
Please help me I am perplexed.
Dan
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02-09-2012, 05:06 AM #2
Dan, IMHO, a naniwa 12k superstone, or a shapton 16k would probably be more apt to get you to a similar feel of a feather or a gillette blade. That is assuming you have the hand to get the most out of the stone. The naturals are variable whereas the synthetics are all the same. I'm not knocking naturals. I use eschers but I don't want a straight razor that feels like a feather blade. I want more smoothness and that is what I get from the escher. I was taught to first get a good shave , on a regular basis, honing up to the 8k level. Once I had the skill set to do that I had confidence that I was not moving up the grit ladder prematurely. I thank Randydance for giving me that instruction.
Be careful how you treat people on your way up, you may meet them again on your way back down.
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The Following User Says Thank You to JimmyHAD For This Useful Post:
pinklather (02-09-2012)
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02-09-2012, 06:07 AM #3
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Thanked: 522______________________________________
Dan
Just for the fun of it, next time you hone a blade, stop honing when you are finished on the CrOx balsa. You may be overdoing it with the diamond on felt. Try a test shave after the balsa and do not press too hard when stropping. Give it a try.....
JerryJERRY
OOOPS! Pass the styptic please.
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02-09-2012, 06:13 AM #4
Jimmy tells ya right, Daniel.
On finishing, a member communicating w/ Heribert Wacker's son mentioned that HW thought anything above 10k was a waste. Glen will often say that anything above 8k is all subjective personal preference. You start shopping naturals, and you're gonna part w/ some money. And it won't guarantee you'll have a good stone - or that you'll know how to use it well. Plus, you're going to run into blades/steels that don't like your nice new natural. Having the synthetic finisher gives you a reliable fallback position. Nani, Shapton - Lynn has posted favorably about the Sigma 13k. When a blade gives me fits, I reach for the Nani. I may use some CBN after that, but the edge from the stone is quite respectable.
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02-09-2012, 07:23 AM #5
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Thanked: 13245400 strokes, as in 200 laps, on just the PHIG?????
Or are you talking 400 laps on the PHIG (people's hone of indeterminate grit) that is between 400 and 800 chances of messing up that super fine edge with 1 mis-stroke...
What kind of razor???
Finishers don't really impart sharpness they do smoothness, or at least should
Too many questions
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The Following User Says Thank You to gssixgun For This Useful Post:
niftyshaving (02-09-2012)
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02-09-2012, 07:41 AM #6
Dan, the equipment you already have is more than ample to get the edges you want. Your skill level is simply not there yet.
Patience & practice is what you need. Buying expensive Jnats & Coticules at this stage will still perplex you but in a more expensive wayThe white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.
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02-09-2012, 08:44 AM #7
A feather is a tough act to follow.
The Na12K is a good recommendation it is
the first hone that got me close to a feather.
You have a Norton 4k/8k and a natural hone.
I might suggest you drip any slurry from your
Norton 8k on your C12k for a while and hone
with that then water. Just a bit to make washing
any swarf and glaze off easy.
Once the surface of the C12K has smoothed
just use it with water. Building a slurry could generate
"chunks" that dull a good edge. i.e. In my opinion you do not need
a c12k slurry to finish the edge after the 8K norton.
My bet is that the C12K slurry is getting in the way.
Limit yourself to 20 hone strokes on the C12K you should
already have a good shave from the Norton 8k and just
want to polish it a bit. They are slow but that is what
you need at this stage.Last edited by niftyshaving; 02-09-2012 at 08:48 AM.
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02-09-2012, 09:16 AM #8
C12K's are slow, but 200/400 is madness, there's no need for that many strokes/laps.
I tend to use slurry with mine, but a quite thin one, and as I dip the razor in the sink about every 5 laps, it's gone fairly quickly, and I usually end with 20-40 laps on clear water, it varies.
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02-09-2012, 09:55 AM #9I was taught to first get a good shave , on a regular basis, honing up to the 8k level. Once I had the skill set to do that I had confidence that I was not moving up the grit ladder prematurely. I thank Randydance for giving me that instruction.
Get all you can out the 8k and then move to 20-50 laps on the cnat on water and you should be good to go
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02-09-2012, 10:25 AM #10
Dan hows the shave off the 8k ?