Thread: Using Oil on Waterstones: a simple question

I have been reading more and more about people using oil on waterstones for that little tiny bit extra, especially on Coticules and BBW's

First there is no doubt that it works, so please don't tell me how great it is... what I am asking is how did you test the stone ???

Both of these stones work, with the release of slurry when used with water and a rubbing stone or plate, so how did you test for oil absorbtion on the stone ???

Does the use of oil inhibite the production of slurry??? over the long run have you wrecked/changed your stone
Have you dedicated one stone to an oil finisher much like a pasted strop and it can't go back???

So what tests did you use????

I've always been an oil for oilstone/water for waterstone guy, but will admit to doing experiments on waterstones. When I do experiment, lately I've been using Smith's homing solution(thanks for reintroducing me to this stuff Glen ) it washes out easily and gives the same feel as oil, giving me the chance to try it on stones I normally wouldn't use oil on. Nine times out of ten I find that there is a reason they are called waterstones and not oilstones.

I too have read more than my experience can state, however with that said I will tell you of my one experience. I've never obtained a coticule that I could consider a true "finisher". I've had somewhere between 6-8 total, however I have yet to obtain the quality of shave that I can obtain with synthetics followed by a natural finisher like Escher, Asagi, or CF.

My only experience of oil (sewing machine oil from hobby lobby) on a coti: My coti with water is approximately 6-7K as a shapton gs 8k is finer per the scratch marks on steel: sheffield, german, and american steels tested. Add sewing machine oil to the dry coti and the finish I would estimate around 10K & the shave was just fine. Scratches were real close to Naniwa 12K scratches, but comparing a natural finish to a synthetic finish is real hard to do with just magnification and my face is not dialed in enough to tell the difference between 10&12K. Test was without slurry. Your question does bring up a good question...did I ruin my coti? I only cleaned the stone with dish soap and gave it a light rubbing under running water with my dmt325 & put it away...so I don't know if I "ruined" it as a waterstone or not. I will have to check & get back with you on that one. From what I recall, oil absorption was present, how deep...I don't know. How will that oil absorption effect the release of the natural particles/garnets? I'm not sure...I would "think" that it would slow their release some. How much so if a slightly soapy water was used?
I would "think" that if a coticule was used with the same viscosity as sewing machine oil for lets say a year & 100 razors later that it would be very much like a pasted strop as the oil would penetrate throughout the stone.

Will I use oil on a thuringian...heck no as I do feel that it would kill the stone...literally. Will I continue to use oil on this or any other coti? Probably not as a coti in the 6-8K range has a good use where it is. Would I recommend oil on a coti, no as I could have very well killed mine. I just wanted to try it to answer my own questions.

My hypothesis was that I thought oil would improve the edge & it did. I entered this experiment knowing that I could forever change this stone. How much it has been effected is yet to be known.

I know it's a long ramble Glen, hope you can make heads or tails of what I am trying to say.

The only experience I have had with oil on waterstones came as the result of leaving my King 1K in the sink soaking in a dish. Someone else innocently enough dripped olive oil in the sink and the container soaking the stone. When I reached in and picked up the stone it managed to bring one nice big drop of olive oil with it which proceeded to sink to the bottom of the stone. That was a couple of years back and the remnants of that stone still have a circle which will only yield to my flattener while every piece of steel ever pushed towards it skips cleanly past.

In my limited experience of honing razors, thus the beginning of my use of waterstones; I only use water on the waterstones because I want the "cleanest surface" against my blade. I wash/rinse the stone's surface after every 10 strokes to remove the metal transfer, slurry or not. I want the most cut/best performance out of that particular grit. I feel that oil on my waterstones would be harder to clean off between my 10 stroke sessions. I cringe at the thought of oil on my waterstones.

I don't use oilstones on my razors. I use oilstones on all other types of blades. I use WD-40 on my oilstones to flush the transfer from the stone's surface & give me a clean start on the next session. The thin, penetrating characteristics of WD-40 allow me to get the most performance out of my oilstone's grit.

I am not sure if this is what you are asking, Glen. I am just a beginner in this world of honing.

Is a coti/BBW a waterstone? I'd read some folks had old cotis with labels that said either oil or water. Just going on hearsay.

Certainly my Nortons will never touch oil.

Originally Posted by Hirlau

I am not sure if this is what you are asking, Glen. I am just a beginner in this world of honing.

Originally Posted by Krodor

I'd read some folks had old cotis with labels that said either oil or water. Just going on hearsay.

This is exactly what and why I am asking, I have heard a ton of hearsay but I have not seen a test ... I am just wondering if anyone has done even the simplest of tests before putting oil on their (now) quite expensive Coticule...

If you dig in the archives here on SRP you can find some references of Oil and Coticules and some very smart Rockhounds saying "Are you Nuts"..

Originally Posted by gssixgun

If you dig in the archives here on SRP you can find some references of Oil and Coticules and some very smart Rockhounds saying "Are you Nuts"..

Which is still hearsay, which is why you are asking about a test, eh?

Well, I got my coti for 4 bucks at an antique shop, and yeah, it's nice, but I'm not emotionally attached to it. I figured if I screw it up, im not out much and would prolly get a bigger one (its fairly small) in the future anyway. As for the BBW, those aren't too much money and and I figured I'd give that a shot too.

As for a test? I guess I'm in the middle of it. If I notice a degrade or if water starts beading up funny on my rocks in the future, I guess I'll find out and let you know, but it hasn't happened yet.

Could always test/try it on a slurry stone. Those are cheap.

In no position to do any testing and create a report,would love to see expert opinions tho.
I will say that people who have used oil have reported great results using mineral oil (which happens to be partly water soluble) or glycerin which is 100% water soluble,some have said that cotis do not even absorb water let alone oil.
Just my two cents,pls feel free to delete my post as it in no way addresess the orig question,just some ruminations on my part.

Originally Posted by Krodor

Could always test/try it on a slurry stone. Those are cheap.

That is my thought, but I don't even want to use one of mine if somebody has done it already...