Results 61 to 70 of 79
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03-14-2015, 04:44 AM #61
- Join Date
- May 2014
- Location
- Olympia Washington
- Posts
- 271
Thanked: 52This is the progression I use when finishing on the G20
Naniwa Professional P310(1k)
Professional P330(3k)
Naniwa Hayabusa 4K
Naniwa Fuji 8K
Finish on the 20K
About 30 laps on the G20 and the 8K scratches are gone.
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03-17-2015, 10:12 PM #62
- Join Date
- Nov 2013
- Posts
- 758
Thanked: 104Gee Bill, most blokes only dream of a collection like yours. How do you find the 10k SG to 15k SG. I have a 10k Icebear, then the 15 & 20k SG but I am interested in how you go with those 3 stones. sometimes I use the icebear with clear water with very few strokes, just to get to the Suehiros. Your thoughts mate?
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04-24-2015, 11:19 AM #63
My setup is as follows
Chosera 800
Chosera 2k
Chosera 5k
SS 10k
Suehero 20k
The 10k to 20k jump is no problem and I seldom need more than 15 strokes on the 20k
This is the first synthetic that gives me a smooth shave, I love it.
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04-24-2015, 10:14 PM #64
- Join Date
- Nov 2013
- Posts
- 758
Thanked: 104I bet you thought about getting the chosera 10k! Bloody expensive stone. I have only yesterday, decided on keeping things in order, so my last three stones now are the 10k Suehiro, then the 15k and finally the 20k, works well and should do at the price...lol. In reality I didn't really need the 15k, but, got it anyway....HAD I guess.
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04-25-2015, 11:47 AM #65
I have been thinking of the chosera 10k instead of the SS10k but the current setup works for me. The SS10k gives a very shiny bevel and shows any sub 10k scratches witch is the feedback I need at that point.
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04-26-2015, 02:46 AM #66
- Join Date
- Nov 2013
- Posts
- 758
Thanked: 104I thought the same thing about the Chosera 10k. But I figured I'd be better off with the Suehiro 10k to go with the other two (15k & 20k). The Suehiro is $200 in Australian dollars, where the Chosera is $335 bucks. It's the usual case of what you need and what you want, and I fail the test big time! But I won't be taking on the Chosera 10k no matter how nice it may be....lol
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04-28-2015, 10:56 PM #67
- Join Date
- Jul 2013
- Posts
- 444
Thanked: 18Untrue. I have a full set of shaptons (less the burple) that I used for a good 15 years prior to discovering jnats. These stones lived day in and out in wild temperature and humidity swings. They were used for that application most demanding flatness: the flattening of chisel and plane blade backs.
Nothing changed their shape except abrasion.
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04-28-2015, 11:55 PM #68
- Join Date
- Nov 2013
- Posts
- 758
Thanked: 104Absolutely, jgjgjg, the whole conversation about stones and dishing as a result of razor honing is convoluted. Stones of say, 8k and above take an awful lot of work to 'dish'. I have used naniwa SS 8k, 10k, King 8k 10k and Suehiro 15k and 20k, for a while now, and I check my hones with a straight edge and a feeler gauge (.oo5 of a mm) and if I am not 100% sure of them being flat I grid them and lap then with DMT325 & or Atoma 400. As you say abrasion is what will change the surface of the mentioned stones. Amateur users like me, find it hard to see them dishing out at all really, even the clay based, softer kings.
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04-29-2015, 08:51 AM #69
- Join Date
- Sep 2013
- Location
- NW Indiana
- Posts
- 1,060
Thanked: 246It's not dishing per se. I have 5 Shapton Pro stones, and they DO indeed move with humidity and temperature changes. Is not like they're going to warp 1/16" or anything, it's just a few thousandths of an inch. Enough so a pencil grid will come off only in the middle or only on the ends if the stone is lapped. I find giving the stones a couple minutes of soak helps to combat this. It happens a lot more when they are used splash and go style by running them under a sink faucet when the water used isn't room temperature. Giving them a quick soak a couple minutes before use lets them temperature equalize and they repeat - or I should say, stay flat - fairly well then.
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04-29-2015, 11:45 AM #70
- Join Date
- Aug 2009
- Location
- Des Moines
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- 8,664
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Thanked: 2591