Thread: My first jnat

Received this wakasa and tomonagura from Maxim today, after an epic 3 months of research and learning to hone on Naniwa 3k/8k. Started getting consistently good edges off the Naniwa so dropped on this. Unfortunately I don't have any razors ready for the hone, and it doesn't feel right to kill an edge just to try the hone (when I only have 4 razors in the collection). So a test will have to wait.

Maxim said this was his favourite stone for a beginner to Jnats. I do notice 2 patches which are slightly rougher than the surrounding surface. Do you experienced Jnat-guys know if they usually come out after lapping/rubbing with nagura? They are the same colour as the rest of the stone.

have you flaten the stone yet ? you dont have to kill the edge this stone will greatly improve the edge from an 8k use slurry first

Re killing the edge - I meant, if I am unskilled at using this stone (my first natural of any kind), that I might end up producing a lesser edge than I get off the 8K. If I wait til a razor needs a touch-up anyway, then I don't lose anything even if I bugger it up and have to go back down. Haven't flattened yet, but will tomorrow.

Just a suggestion, you might want check this site to see if someone has or is selling an inexpensive razor that you can practice on.
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you need to lap the stone real well ans smooth it as much as possible before use.

Originally Posted by l3580

Re killing the edge - I meant, if I am unskilled at using this stone (my first natural of any kind), that I might end up producing a lesser edge than I get off the 8K.

That won't happen. A good japanese mid-range stone should basically be like a point and shoot camera.

'Sounds like Stefan & Johnus give you the goods. Getting to know a natural requires quite a bit of practice to get to know a rock. In that way, I think the naturals are over-rated - but that's another story.

On the rough spots - I'd ask Maxim about it, and what he recommends. That way, you're not introducing any actions (lapping, etc) that could make it difficult for him to provide good service - such as exchange or replacement. With that issue resolved, you need to be free to practice alot. IIRC, Holli4pirating once answered questions about learning to hone well: go do a couple hundred blades and most of these questions will go away.

Practice blades: good, sound steel, straight edge w/ no smile, at least 1/2 hollow, but preferably full or extra hollow. The reason for cheap is so you can make peace w/ the idea of practicing enough to wear it into the shape of a chopstick. If you're worried about blade wear, you're not free to experiment. This doesn't mean fleabay/antique store blades that need restorative grinding so you're ABLE to hone. A cheap blade - no beauty queen that has a sound bevel - meaning the wear surfaces of the spine and edge are already parallel and mostly straight - is a requirement for valid testing. If in doubt - send to a pro or experienced user and have them just set a good bevel for you. You'll learn much faster and thank yourself.

Others will have to advise on the use of naguras - I don't use them.

With no worries about blade wear, you can go have fun. If your 8k edges already give a nice shave - you're able to benefit from the use of higher grits - syth or natural. Go have a ball!