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Thread: Norton 220/1000

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    Senior Member ccase39's Avatar
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    Default Norton 220/1000

    I have a Norton 220/1000 to go along with my Norton 4k/8k and a Chinese finishing stone. Is the 220 to course to set a bevel? Should I start with the 220 and continue the circle method on the 1000 and then use x strokes only on the higher stones or should I set the bevel on the 220 and start the rest of the honing progression with the x strokes on the 1k? The 220 seems to be a much coarser stone than most people here use for bevel setting.
    Last edited by ccase39; 12-19-2012 at 06:45 PM.

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    Senior Member jpcwon's Avatar
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    I'd say start on the 1k. The 220 is more for bevel "correction", or if it has nicks in it (or a frown). It will remove way more metal than you need it to IMO...

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    Incidere in dimidium Cangooner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jpcwon View Post
    I'd say start on the 1k. The 220 is more for bevel "correction", or if it has nicks in it (or a frown). It will remove way more metal than you need it to IMO...
    Yup, don't go to your 220 unless it is really needed. I have the same stone as you and have only used the 220 half of the 220/1000 to deal with major issues like a big chip. I think I've use it on two blades total out of, say, 40 or so that I have honed. If your edge doesn't have any major problems that need addressing and you're just re-establishing a bevel then stick with the 1000. The 220 will remove metal quite quickly (i.e. it's easy to go overboard) and will also leave significant scratches that you'll want to remove later. So there's no real advantage to using it unless it is necessary.

    It was in original condition, faded red, well-worn, but nice.
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    Senior Member ccase39's Avatar
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    That is kind of what I figured but I wanted to be sure before I did a blind test on it. I won't need to set a bevel for a while anyway. Most of mine are sharp enough to where all I need to do is touch them up on the 8k or natural.

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    Incidere in dimidium Cangooner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ccase39 View Post
    That is kind of what I figured but I wanted to be sure before I did a blind test on it. I won't need to set a bevel for a while anyway. Most of mine are sharp enough to where all I need to do is touch them up on the 8k or natural.
    In that case, when the time comes to hone, if you're touching up a blade, you don't even have to jump right to the 1000. Try it on your 4000/8000 first as you may be able to do everything you need with it. As is often said by guys who know a whole lot more about this than I, "less is more". So don't go to 220 if 1000 will work for you, don't go to 1000 if 4000 will work for you, and so on.

    It was in original condition, faded red, well-worn, but nice.
    This was and still is my favorite combination; beautiful, original, and worn.
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    Same here. I only use the 220 if I'm trying to remove a large chip or something similar. Using the 220 otherwise ads work to the honing process.

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    Senior Member mjsorkin's Avatar
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    I dropped a razor the other day ruining the existing bevel. I used the 220 to remove the chips and remake the bevel.

    It required good technique and quite a bit of work.

    It's a rough stone and you need to keep applying water all the time.

    It scratches deeply but the 1k easily removes those scratches.

    Michael

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