Thread: Help please.

New razor
Dovo carbon steel
After soaking the stones in water I use the pyramid tech at first I started at the three which worked fine until I used the finishing stone with the slurry I thought I was careful about the pressure. Anyway that seemed to dull the blade. So I took it back to the norton starting at the three. That didn't do it either so I started again from the ten that seemed to work. I only used the twelve for about five strokes. I know it's a lot of wear on the blade that's why I'm worried about the spine. Why is electrical tape irrelevant?

Originally Posted by pbsd

New razor
Dovo carbon steel
After soaking the stones in water I use the pyramid tech at first I started at the three which worked fine until I used the finishing stone with the slurry I thought I was careful about the pressure. Anyway that seemed to dull the blade. So I took it back to the norton starting at the three. That didn't do it either so I started again from the ten that seemed to work. I only used the twelve for about five strokes. I know it's a lot of wear on the blade that's why I'm worried about the spine. Why is electrical tape irrelevant?

So you do not have a 1k stone?

No just 4k/8k and 12k it's a new blade so I didn't think I needed one.

Originally Posted by pbsd

No just 4k/8k and 12k it's a new blade so I didn't think I needed one.

You probably do need a 1k to set bevels. You can use the 4k but it will take longer compared.
Before you start the pyramid you need to make sure the bevel is set correctly, then do the pyramid.
What kind of test are you using to check where the edge is after each stage of honing?

The 12k you have is typically a very slow stone , the number of strokes you do on it will not be enough to feel much improvement from 8k.

All that being said, forget about the 12k for now, and work on your 8k results , they will improve with time. When you start getting consistent results you can move on to the 12k stage.

Originally Posted by mainaman

You probably do need a 1k to set bevels. You can use the 4k but it will take longer compared.
Before you start the pyramid you need to make sure the bevel is set correctly, then do the pyramid.
What kind of test are you using to check where the edge is after each stage of honing?

The 12k you have is typically a very slow stone , the number of strokes you do on it will not be enough to feel much improvement from 8k.

All that being said, forget about the 12k for now, and work on your 8k results , they will improve with time. When you start getting consistent results you can move on to the 12k stage.

Stefan,

How would you advise he use slurry in this case? My first reaction would be to use the slurry on the 4k to help set the bevel. Once complete, rinse the stone free of the slurry and continue with the 4k and 8k, water only. Would you agree?


Dan

What about flattening the spine should I be concerned?

On your 12k you can hone until your arm falls off and you won't flatten the spine.

As someone mentioned, if it's not shaving well the problem is not at the 12k level.

Don't use the Norton to make slurry on the 12k. You're adding 8k (or 4k?) grit particles to your 12k stone. The only time to use a lower grit for slurry is when bevel setting or if using a diamond plate (because it won't be releasing grit into the slurry).

I am more concerned about flattening the spine at the 4k/8k level.

Do you have to set the bevel every time you hone even on a new blade?

I would suggest you go back to the norton and get the razor back to the level of sharpness you attained in the first place. Then strop and shave. If it is shaving well off of the 8k it is ready to go to the 12k . If it is not shaving well off the 8k it needs more work. Maybe a bevel set as Stefan noted.

Magnification can tell you something about that if you have it. Slurry can dull an edge somewhat. It will add speed of cutting to the stone but if you check out most tutorials they either use a very thin slurry or dilute as they progress. Some of the guys who used the Chinese 12k reported doing 100 or more round trips to attain to the level of sharpness they were seeking and that , IIRC, was with water only.

When I first started honing I used one layer of 3M electrical tape on every razor I honed. In the beginning, as you are getting your skills honed (pun) you will have more peace of mind if you protect the spine. Once you feel confident in your honing ability it is optional.

Originally Posted by OCDshaver

Stefan,

How would you advise he use slurry in this case? My first reaction would be to use the slurry on the 4k to help set the bevel. Once complete, rinse the stone free of the slurry and continue with the 4k and 8k, water only. Would you agree?


Dan

4k with slurry then rinse off and hone with no slurry before you get to the 8k

@ OP
right now I feel you have a bit of a mix of all kinds of factors that play into your honing.
You need to sort things out to get a clear picture of what is going on and how to fix it.
Start with your honing system, for the moment forget the 12k, and as Jimmy suggested focus on your 8k results.
So when you are sure the bevel is set correctly, do your pyramid and test shave. If the results are not there, repeat.

The 4k will not be enough to damage the spine you will have to take some metal but once you set the bevel right you should not be worried anymore. After the bevel is set, provided you do not have to fix chips on the edge, you will only be touching up on your 8k/12k, or pastes so the spine hone wear will be minimal.


How do you check your edge progress after each honing stage?