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Thread: Lemurs Rocks!
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03-22-2013, 12:59 AM #21
Congratulations Lemur, thank you for sharing.
MIke
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03-22-2013, 01:02 AM #22
I've been thinking of some standardized color but then we should all agree on one, is there any?
Do Wilson Art ship to Sweden?
My photo skills are not that good, even tho I've been using IR, UV and even radar cameras.Hur Svenska stålet biter kom låt oss pröfva på.
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03-22-2013, 01:06 AM #23
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Thanked: 1371A photographer's neutral gray card would be even better. If that website doesn't ship to Sweden, you could look for a gray card at a photography store.
Neutral gray (or "middle gray") is used universally for color correction in photography.
The reason I recommended the card above is because it's about as close as you can find to a neutral gray card without having to pay for it.
You can read more here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gray_card
Now, if anyone wants to go really extreme, a reasonably calibrated monitor will ensure that you're seeing the color adjusted images correctly. This software is free for Windows users, and is very easy to use: http://www.calibrize.com/
On Linux, take a look at LPROF: http://lprof.sourceforge.net/Last edited by HNSB; 03-22-2013 at 01:19 AM.
Strange women lying in ponds distributing swords is no basis for a system of government.
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The Following User Says Thank You to HNSB For This Useful Post:
Lemur (03-22-2013)
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03-22-2013, 09:11 AM #24
Found a friend who have some "grey cards", but now I'm confused.
He said the 18 % gray is for the printing industry, for calibrating my photos I should use a 12 % grey card...
But then I think any 18 % grey card wouldn't make my pictures worse, only cat tails can do that.
More stones on the way!Hur Svenska stålet biter kom låt oss pröfva på.
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03-22-2013, 02:39 PM #25
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Thanked: 44Grey cards are traditionally for exposure, not white balance. 18% is effectively meaningless with regard to white balance setting.
There are dedicated white balance references, and I have one of those old WhiBal cards, but I don't really ever use it. They are a pain when dealing with varied light.
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03-22-2013, 02:50 PM #26
Well that's overkill for my "photo sessions", but to put something like HNSB suggested in the picture would at least let others see the difference.
Now time to unpack new hones...Hur Svenska stålet biter kom låt oss pröfva på.
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03-22-2013, 03:15 PM #27
Some quick pics;
Sellers info was, from left: LM slate, Yellow/Green Nakayama Slate, Green probably cuttlers green, probably vintage ThurigianHur Svenska stålet biter kom låt oss pröfva på.
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03-22-2013, 04:32 PM #28
Nobody here knows for sure what a Cutler's Green looks like, but we do know an ebay seller who sells vintage stones and cuts his own stones for which he uses vintage names he finds at this forum. Names such as LM (llyn Melynllyn), Cutler's Green and Thuringian. So basically you have 3 AJ stones and a Jnat (I can't read what it says).
Plenty of people like AJ's stones so they may turn out to be decent stones.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Piet For This Useful Post:
Lemur (03-22-2013)
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03-22-2013, 05:26 PM #29
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03-22-2013, 05:39 PM #30
I had that in my mind when I bought them but "needed" some more hones to try.
Some of these will probably end up in my fathers woodworking shop, they are all good stones maybe not as finishers of razors tho.
I already got more than my share of super finishers so no tears here.
Anyone know anything more of them, please tell!Hur Svenska stålet biter kom låt oss pröfva på.