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Thread: Restoring an old Coticule
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04-25-2013, 05:04 PM #11
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Thanked: 2209Hmmmm, diamond plates do not wear down? I must have purchased some bad ones.
Randolph Tuttle, a SRP Mentor for residents of Minnesota & western Wisconsin
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04-25-2013, 05:11 PM #12
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04-25-2013, 05:44 PM #13
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Thanked: 2209Randolph Tuttle, a SRP Mentor for residents of Minnesota & western Wisconsin
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04-25-2013, 05:54 PM #14
Hmm, you're probably right it can happen but I have never had any problem with it.
I use the slurry for final polishing and it's "clean" from any gritty things, I'm sure I just got jinxed and next time I'll get a scratch from hell on my blade!
Ahh, and there is a big difference for mono crystalline and poly diamonds to, the poly type break of pieces... that could be it!Hur Svenska stålet biter kom låt oss pröfva på.
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04-25-2013, 07:59 PM #15
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Thanked: 3Oh bugger,
I just assumed one diamond plate was as good as another and bought the following today.
I liked the 4 grits thinking it would get the job done quickly and then I could smoothen surface with 600grit.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B005...pi=SL500_SX125
From what I am reading it sounds like I should have bought something made of sturdier stuff.
I will take your advice and smoothen the BBW as well - seems a shame to have it be not use it.
I have been reading loads of posts on the coticule here and I am really looking forward to getting into it.
Thanks for feedback all!
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04-25-2013, 08:56 PM #16
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04-25-2013, 08:58 PM #17
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Thanked: 443I hope you meant "nuances." But Lenahaad, be forewarned, not every coticule is a great coticule. Some aren't even very good. But if yours was dished, then someone really liked it and it's probably a good one.
About your four-sided diamond block--check each side with a straight edge before you touch it to any hone. I bought a lower-price plate once and discovered it was quite far from flat. I'd have ruined hones, or at least lost a lot of them before getting them flat again, if I had used it without checking. The DMT plates are reliably flat, as are the more expensive Atoma and some others. DMTs are probably the least expensive reliably flat ones. (DMT = "Diamond Machining Technology"). Beware lapping at 600 grit; the diamonds that small are more likely to get sheared off their plate by lapping. Do the heavy work at 350 or coarser, then just put a light polish on with the 600 if you want to.
Best wishes."These aren't the droids you're looking for." "These aren't the droids we're looking for." "He can go about his business." "You can go about your business."
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04-26-2013, 05:40 PM #18
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Thanked: 3215Spell Checker victim, though as you said… they can be. And then there is the collecting…problem.
Be careful with inexpensive diamond plates, you can use them to hog off material or bevel edges, but they can have diamond clumps on them. Run them on some hard steel first to knock off any high spots and prevent gouging, an ax or shovel tip.
Finish on a good diamond plate like a DMT or wet & dry sand paper. That stone is not that bad and I would not risk it. Sanding screen and Wet & Dry is the most economical answer.
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04-26-2013, 09:06 PM #19
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Thanked: 2209I have seen 2 of the DMT plates that were not flat. Be sure to check them.
Randolph Tuttle, a SRP Mentor for residents of Minnesota & western Wisconsin
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04-27-2013, 12:52 AM #20
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Thanked: 443Wow, thus begins the slide toward darkness! I wonder if they succombed to the siren song of offshored production.
<sad tale> Checkpoint levels did that, and are now out of business. A pipefitter at my last job told me that a lot of jobsites don't allow Checkpoints because the quality slid so far toward the end. I had one of the last ones made in the U.S. and I could tell that quality control had slid, and a newer one from Taiwan wasn't much better. Alas. </sad tale>"These aren't the droids you're looking for." "These aren't the droids we're looking for." "He can go about his business." "You can go about your business."