Thread: Zulu Grey vs Naniwa SS 12K comparison

Originally Posted by PaulKidd

Thanks, Bob. I presume then that you are recommending going from the Nani 12K
to the Zulu? Or is it straight to the Zulu for a touch up?

I'll have to try both routines and see how it goes.

Paul

Paul, if I am going through the honing process sequence I do go the Zulu after the 12k Nani. For just touch a touch up when needed I go straight to the Zulu for a very short time.

i bought my 12k as a step between 8k & Zulu and did about 40 razor finished up to 12k while i waited for my Zulu to arrive ....

the 12k was a sure step from the 8k but i also found it to have that almost to sharp crisp feel , while waiting for the Zulu i picked up a coticule and have went from coming off the Zulu to knocking the crispness down on the coticule to just loving the coticule edge and skipping the 12k & Zulu all together ...

i have been thinking bout hitting the Zulu again cause i haven't played with it enough but when i did i always found the slurry diluted to water was more effective and also a bit smoother then the 12k or Zulu with just water ..

Originally Posted by gooser

i bought my 12k as a step between 8k & Zulu and did about 40 razor finished up to 12k while i waited for my Zulu to arrive ....

the 12k was a sure step from the 8k but i also found it to have that almost to sharp crisp feel , while waiting for the Zulu i picked up a coticule and have went from coming off the Zulu to knocking the crispness down on the coticule to just loving the coticule edge and skipping the 12k & Zulu all together ...

i have been thinking bout hitting the Zulu again cause i haven't played with it enough but when i did i always found the slurry diluted to water was more effective and also a bit smoother then the 12k or Zulu with just water ..

The Zulu often needs a bit of a kick start to start working (not always though) within a reasonable amount of time. If I hone on it with water only I can get the results I want but it might take a lot more strokes then if I start the first set of laps with some slurry. The slurry on the Zulu when its at a very effective consistency is nearly invisible to see. If you build up a very milky slurry on a Zulu (which is not easy and to the extent that it looks like the slurry on a Coticule) you will not be happy with the results and it can take your edge backwards instead of forward.

Originally Posted by 1holegrouper

The Zulu often needs a bit of a kick start to start working (not always though) within a reasonable amount of time. If I hone on it with water only I can get the results I want but it might take a lot more strokes then if I start the first set of laps with some slurry. The slurry on the Zulu when its at a very effective consistency is nearly invisible to see. If you build up a very milky slurry on a Zulu (which is not easy and to the extent that it looks like the slurry on a Coticule) you will not be happy with the results and it can take your edge backwards instead of forward.

My sentiments exactly! I describe the slury as cloudy water. Double O