Thread: What's you pattern for eBay specials? (Crap to SHARP³)

Oooohhhhhh... I think I'm following you now. So the entire spine isn't flat along the stone during the stroke, but parts of it are slightly raised?

I'm having a hard time visualizing how you can alter the point of contact without changing the blade angle or using an X-stroke.

This graphic represents how I hone a smiling blade. I keep the spine flat throughout the stroke. Do you think this will overhone the blade? I'm not sure why it would...

Thanks for clarifying this--good discussion.

Josh

If it's a smiling blade and you're using the actual Rolling Hone technique it shouldn't increase the amount that the tip gets honed since different parts of the blade are on the hone for approximately the same amounrt of time. Just the angle of the striations would change on the blade, which is still something I'd recommend against. If it's a 'flat' edge, I think you'll be over honing.

The "Contact Zone" you identify is about right, but that's NOT my technique where you pust the tip forward.

Another disclaimer. honing is rightly considered an art form and each artist finds his own way.

X

X,

I edited the graphic so it doesn't claim to represent your techique.

I'm going to grab a smiling blade tonight and see if I can figure out how your approach works. I understand it in theory, I think, but just can't see how the motion goes. Maybe next time I try to describe it I'll get it right...

I see what you mean about overhoning a flat blade, but I'm not sure I agree. I have a 3-inch Norton, so the tip is basically on the hone for the entire stroke. (I know, I know, this is an entirely different discussion...) Somehow my stroke compensates for this because I'm able to get even edges on straight blades.

So it seems like the approach I put in the graphic is some kind of hybrid--does that mean I get to come up with my own cool name for it?

I'm going to go sit at the back of the classroom now...

Josh

Wll, I can't remember who coined the term Rolling Hone first, but it wasn't me. I think Nenad actually came up with an amazingly clear graphic of it.





You can zoom in for better view here.

X

Wow...good info guys thanks for sharing that. It'll come in handy having had this discussed here. I'm still having some trouble with this blade I'm working on though, even after working the toe half on the 1K to even out the bevel into a single full length bevel I'm still not getting the whole thing sharp yet. The heel half still cuts hair nicely (after a couple of pyramids) but the toe half just runs right over the hair without doing anything at all. I can't see any signs of a bad bevel, but I lack a microscope and all I have for magnification purposes is a magnifying glass. Are there any suggestions for what I can do to try working the kinks out further? Like should I go through a couple of the aggressive pyramids maybe three sets to see if things even out?

I'd say do a couple dozen laps on the 4k only, working hard for evenness all along the edge and equal on both sides, Then do a full pyramid starting at 3/5, 5/5 etc. up to 10/5, 15/5, 10/5 and back down again. Gradually ease off the pressure toward the end to ultra light. Report any differences.

X

Josh, when doing the rock-and-roll technique your hand winds up making a vertical X along the side of the hone. Whether the heel leads or the razor is straight across the hone doesn't matter, but whatever you choose this remains constant all the way down the hone.