Thread: Honing Journey

Originally Posted by crouton976

Just for clarity, you set the bevel on the 4k, right? Or was it already decently set and ready to go to the 4k for refinement?

I have just the 4k/8k, and set the bevel on the 4k. I definitely need to revisit it, though. I heard you can set bevels on the 4k, so I opted not to get the 1k, at least not right now. Funds were tight, so I got what I felt like I absolutely needed. Plus the Norton 4/8 thread Glen posted proves it can all be done with this one combo stone. I just need more practice.

Originally Posted by bill3152

Im not an expert. But I would learn the bevel setting stone. Have a shave ready razor to compare to. Stay on the bevel setter until it cuts arm hair through the whole edge. The bevel is all the sharpness, going up in grit is just polishing. Strop it and make a wtg pass on your cheek. . If it cuts all of it, its set. The shave will feel rough but should cut. Then onto your other hones.

Okay, cool. Thanks for this advice. I will try doing this tonight!

Can't add more to what has been said but just reinforce to stay with the DD till you get it sorted. It will be easier than working on the wedge. For the wedge you can take a gander at http://www.coticule.be/wedges.html for some ideas as to how to go about honing one. There is an excel document there that will help you determine how much tape to use on the spine and it was a hrlp in that regard to me in honing a wedge.

Bob

Originally Posted by Chreees

I have just the 4k/8k, and set the bevel on the 4k. I definitely need to revisit it, though. I heard you can set bevels on the 4k, so I opted not to get the 1k, at least not right now. Funds were tight, so I got what I felt like I absolutely needed. Plus the Norton 4/8 thread Glen posted proves it can all be done with this one combo stone. I just need more practice.

Yeah, you can definitely set bevels on the 4K, which is what makes the 4/8k combo such a versatile stone. I was just curious if you were refining a bevel that had been set and needed a bit of touch up work or setting it from the get go.

My understanding (and I'm definitely no expert... still learning myself) is that when you're setting the bevel one of many things to look for is if you're getting black marks on the stone while setting the bevel. If so, than it's not set yet.

The good thing about that bright white 4k side is that you can see this reeeeeal easy. I know you said you were using tape on the W&B, but if you were on the DD too, the only thing touching the stone, as far as bare metal, should have been the bevel. If it was still leaving black marks, you definitely have more work to do there.

Again, I'm still a novice, so take what I'm saying with a grain of salt. Any more experienced folks, please correct me if I'm mistaken about something, as I certainly don't want to steer anyone wrong.

Originally Posted by crouton976

The good thing about that bright white 4k side is that you can see this reeeeeal easy. I know you said you were using tape on the W&B, but if you were on the DD too, the only thing touching the stone, as far as bare metal, should have been the bevel. If it was still leaving black marks, you definitely have more work to do there.

I don't know how this myth originated..The abraded particles don't magically get bleached.
If you rub steel on a white stone it will leave black marks.

Originally Posted by onimaru55

I don't know how this myth originated..The abraded particles don't magically get bleached.
If you rub steel on a white stone it will leave black marks.

Haha... I didn't mean disappear completely. Lemur said it best herehttp://straightrazorpalace.com/honin...-question.html

I meant once you move up to a finer grit you should be polishing the bevel, not creating lots of swarf because you're still cutting the bevel. The amount of swarf should be less and less the further through the progression you go, correct?

My apologies for the confusion.

Yes and no. It depends on the hone. Natural hones hardly build up swarf at least it doesn't stick to the stone. My chosera 10k stays pretty clean, my naniwa 12k and suehiro 20k does get some buildup, nothing major. The faster the hone, the more swarf as the more metal is removed. Wipe or rinse the blade between grits as this will keep the hones a little cleaner. You should do that anyway as you risk taking a lower grit particle to the finer hone.

Whew, glad we got that worked out, haha.

Yes, I always be sure to wipe the blade off before moving to the next grit. Heck, I have been even wiping the blade when switching between circles and strokes.

Originally Posted by crouton976

Haha... I didn't mean disappear completely. Lemur said it best herehttp://straightrazorpalace.com/honin...-question.html

Yep sums it up nicely. Fine stone = less laps & fine swarf. A 4k tho will mostly cut like a 4k.