Thread: diferent natural stone honing method?

That's why I said it's not a degree thing. You can take a massive chunk of basalt which is pretty solid stuff and rub it with aluminum oxide and it will break down but that's not friable in any way shape or form. I'm talking geologic definition of friable here. I guess you can coin something any way you want and common usage can have a different connotation than technical.

What you guys are talking about is really abrasion.

The best way i've found is adding a drop of water, making slurry until theres little water left, leaving it to dry for a minute say (the slurry should flake off) honing 2, 3 sets, rubbing with a slurry stone to clean the swarf, and repeat 2 or 3 times usually until the edge is mirrored (the bevel can achieve a quite impressive mirrored edge this way)

you still get the same signs of suction and sometimes squeaking from the edge, the only difference being is that the mirrored edge does seem to indicate a good edge which is not always the case with water.

I apologize big spendur, I dont know what happens when i make the coticule talc slurry but it definitely feels smoother and finer, whether its the cement holding the cutting particles together or the cutting particles themselves it makes a more pleasant honing experience

kind regards
alex

edit: a bevel can be set with the dry slurry much quicker and consistently than on water and still use the same dry slurry to finish.
to clarify i say dry slurry but there's NO water at all so not so much a slurry as a dust cover of cutting particles and the stone is the flat surface to hone on, sort of like crox on balsa.

This sounds like an interesting experiment! I like playing around with my naturals and will give this a go as well. I'm surprised that a coticule would give a mirror finish. As I sold mine, I'll give it a go on my BBW instead.

i havent tried it on a bbw yet but jnat and coticule can get an edge popping leghair tips before stropping, a really important part is refreshing the surface with the slurry stone to clean the swarf off.

regards alex

So I kind of want to resurrect this discussion.

When I received my first coticule years ago, I actually did this as a way to rectify some pretty terrible dilucot edges. My results were very good--but is it that different from a proper dilucot edge? I can get mirror edges now just off the coticule, but it does take forever. Very interesting.

And… how are the shaves?

I remember the edge being able to shave, but this was back when I had approximately zero idea what I was doing and couldn't compare a good edge to a bad one. I remember Lynn's edges being fantastic --I can't answer your question because the context with which I reviewed the edge was not optimal -- I do remember it being a significant improvement over my early dilucot attempts, better HHT (we all ready established HHT is about as useful as a typewriter), better polish, e.t.c. I've become acquainted with my coticule now, but I'm always looking for something because I'm obsessed. It was a strange edge, I do remember that. It was like a highly polished haze. Very strange. I'm sure under a microscope it looked like Omaha Beach on D-Day.

I don't feel like rehoning any of my razors at current, but I have an incoming 6/8 clauss coming in. I'll give this a whirl and report back on the shave. I was hoping other people would chime in with more experience with it.

As an aside, I smell new comer bias.

I've never tried dry powder slurry, but I used to have real good luck with my Coticule by first setting the bevel with a 1k stone then working the edge first with a Coticule with heavy slurry then a medium slurry on the BBW then plain water BBW then plain water Coticule. All the lap counts vary depending on the edge

Originally Posted by rodb

I've never tried dry powder slurry, but I used to have real good luck with my Coticule by first setting the bevel with a 1k stone then working the edge first with a Coticule with heavy slurry then a medium slurry on the BBW then plain water BBW then plain water Coticule. All the lap counts vary depending on the edge

Same deal. Hasn't failed me as of late.

Originally Posted by rodb

I've never tried dry powder slurry, but I used to have real good luck with my Coticule by first setting the bevel with a 1k stone then working the edge first with a Coticule with heavy slurry then a medium slurry on the BBW then plain water BBW then plain water Coticule. All the lap counts vary depending on the edge

I cleaned up a lot of bevel sets with a slurried BBW and then moved on to the slurried coticule. Never went back to the BBW. That sequence never occurred to me.