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Thread: To Aoto...or not to Aoto?

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    Default To Aoto...or not to Aoto?

    I had a big long question, and the website burped when I posted, and all that blathering was lost. So I'll ask the same question only shorter!

    I'm new to all this, and about 10 shaves in. My razor shaves 'ok' with the grain, is very uncomfortable against the grain, and perceptibly dangerous when doing ATG on the upper lip. Because I have been stropping daily, and last night really stropped it (about 50 strokes on polyester and 200 on leather), and it's in this condition, I'm inferring that I at least need a touch up on a stone. True? False?

    I could this touch on Shapton stones (to 8k) or on JNats. JNATS are my preference, at least for finishing. So I see a couple of options. First, using the finishing stone only (maybe with different nagura slurries) for a touch up. Second, set the bevel with shaptons and finish on JNAT. Third, set the bevel on aoto and go then to the finisher.

    Have any of you used an aoto to set the bevel? These get very muddy very fast, so I'm concerned that it may go out of flat prior to finishing the job. Thoughts, recommendations?

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    I used Nakayamas for my house mainaman's Avatar
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    You are not going to get a lot of success with Aoto.
    Good aoto is in the 4k range, not a bevel setter.
    Crappy Aotos(what you see in stores all over the internet) are in the 1-2k range and are too slow and ununiform to be worth the time.
    If you need to refresh only use naguras with your finisher, if you are setting bevels use your shaptons and then jump on the Jnats.
    gssixgun, Lemur and Martin103 like this.
    Stefan

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    Mainaman:

    So, yes, the aoto I have is this one: 3 Green Aoto - Japanese Natural Stones quoted at 3k range.

    For setting the bevel, would I want something coarser than this? My shaptons start at red (4k stone). The only coarser stones I have are the DMT stones (all grits) and some Hall's Pro-Edge Soft and Hard Arkansas stones. Am I reading that when it's time to set the bevel, I should essentially treat it like any other edge tool?

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    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jgjgjg View Post
    Am I reading that when it's time to set the bevel, I should essentially treat it like any other edge tool?


    SMH wondering where that came from in the tens of thousands of Posts, Threads, and Vids that are on SRP to help people learning to hone straight razors, saying the exact opposite

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    Senior Member mjsorkin's Avatar
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    Do you need a touch up or a bevel set?

    Because if you need a touch up then all you need is a few strokes on a very fine stone. Resetting the bevel would be overkill.

    The 8k shapton would be good for a touch up. So would the right j-nat and nagura if one knows how to do it.

    I don't think anyone would say to treat a razor like other edged tools. They need to be treated differently.

    Michael
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    “there is the danger that the ignorant man may easily underdose himself and by exposing his microbes to nonlethal quantities of the drug make them resistant.”---Fleming

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    Senior Member Lemur's Avatar
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    To go the all natural way sure can be fun, but don't expect it to be easy!
    Hur Svenska stålet biter kom låt oss pröfva på.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lemur View Post
    To go the all natural way sure can be fun, but don't expect it to be easy!
    Lemur...you sure as heck got that right! After #1, the missus demanded we go on the rythm method 'cause it was natural! Now I have FOUR!!!

    I finally had to go the vet to get tutored!

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    Quote Originally Posted by mjsorkin View Post
    Do you need a touch up or a bevel set?

    Because if you need a touch up then all you need is a few strokes on a very fine stone. Resetting the bevel would be overkill.

    The 8k shapton would be good for a touch up. So would the right j-nat and nagura if one knows how to do it.

    I don't think anyone would say to treat a razor like other edged tools. They need to be treated differently.

    Michael
    Right. Okay, so get me grounded here. What's the right grit stone to set a bevel? Obviously, I'm not going to what I would do with a beat up chisel and start on 60 grit sandpaper. On the other hand, mainaman indicated that a 4k grit aoto was too fine for bevel setting. So...how low do we go? Assuming, of course, a blade that's not nicked up or used to open packages?

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    Standard stone used for a bevel is 1k. I use on occassion a 600 chosera when i have to. What makes you think it needs a bevel set as opposed to a touchup? You say you have 10 shaves on it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bill3152 View Post
    Standard stone used for a bevel is 1k. I use on occassion a 600 chosera when i have to. What makes you think it needs a bevel set as opposed to a touchup? You say you have 10 shaves on it.
    Well, that's why I was asking. Being new to this level of sharp on metal this thin and all, I thought I'd get educated first. If I were to have similar level of degradation on one of my japanese chisels, I'd just step over to Mr. Hideriyama, spritz spritz, scrubba scrubba, flip and rub, and back to the workbench.

    1000 grit: do you all ever use diamond stones? Or do they chip the edge? What is the hardness of these steels anyway?

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