Thread: Can't seem to set a straight bevel

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The stabilizer is not allowing the heel end of the razor to fully contact the film and the finger pressure is forcing the middle of the edge on the plate causing the wave in your edge. The stabilizer needs grinding so the blade sits flat on the plate. Finger pressure is compounding your problem, too much pressure 30um film is aggressive.

That heel hook needs to be corrected, (rounded). That hook will cut you like a ghetto pimp, deep, wide and continuous.

You also have a lot of spine/hone wear that needs to be taped. Bread knife the edge straight, round the hook, lower the stabilizer and lighten up on the pressure.

Hey Boarder.

'Looks like a few things are in play there. Without detailed knowledge of your procedure, I'm gathering it involves placing a finger on the spine while stroking. A number of skilled guys think this is a recipe for a frown. I tend to disagree, but that's another issue.

Notice your wear on the shoulder. Its in the way of a straight, flat stroke. That shoulder needs to come up so that you have edge that extends below the shoulder - enabling a normal stroke.

The center wear can also be caused by asymetry (warp) in the blade itself, but your photos show the issue is on both sides - more or less equally.

Notice how the further you get away from the shoulder - from about the middle to the toe - the bevel looks more normal, with a slight wear at the point. The angle of point wear likely is in line w/ the contact point of that dragging shoulder.

So what to do? You can't hone until the restoration grinding is done.

Do you do normal honing & just trying film?
Yes - do the resto grinding on the shoulder and even out the wear, *then* work the
bevel on a stone and proceed w/ your experimental method.
No - Send to a pro or find a blade that doesn't require restoration. The latter is likely
the more economical solution.

It would be a shame to get impressions for or against a method - because the test razor was in such bad shape it couldn't be honed by any proper method.

Let me give you a revelation in honing

Burr + Razor = BAD


350 or so Laps yeah that means you are doing something wrong..

Not saying the guys are wrong about the warp or the condition of the razor BUT very few razors are perfect which again means you are doing something wrong.

Honing in its simplicity means moving the edge across an abrasive surface (wait for it) "Evenly & Equally" ,,, to achieve that outcome you have to manipulate the razor around any issues.. We call that Honing Gymnastics which for beginners the Magic Marker test works wonders..

What you did to that razor was try and re-form the Edge to Spine relationship, and by doing that you actually made it worse...


I won't bother to explain the Middle Finger (pun intended) on the spine/blade problems, let's just suffice to say it is not a good idea for beginners and leave it there..


What I find seriously distressing is you did this to an Heirloom Razor, many of us would give an Eye Tooth to even be lucky enough to own one..


PS: What I posted in your other thread applies in Spades here now.. "Many people like to say honing is easy, right up until it isn't"

This blade the way it is is a dousy for a first hone if it is the first time. All good advice given here. And pinklather is right, you cant continue until you remedy the heel and shoulders. Is the film cut narrow by any chance?

You know I am looking at the pics again,,,, I think perhaps you guys might take another look and note that the spine wear although heavy is actually pretty even, that is an indicator of Honing issues not razor issues..

Just saying it is worth another closer look before you blame the razor

Do you have a photo of the razor before you honed it?

I would be interested in how much hone wear the spine had before it hit he 30um film.

unfortunately i didn't take any pics before attempting honing, it was definitely worn significantly as my grandfather was a barber and used this razor allot

Holy hook batman...I'd just send it to a professional so that they can fix everything and get it honed up with as little steel removed as possible.
Especially if this razor is a family heirloom and holds sentimental value for you, I would refrain from removing anymore steel yourself. Fingers crossed....

yea i may do just that, send it to Lynn at SRD

Glen hones and does restorations too, as do quite a few others over here...http://straightrazorpalace.com/class...wcat.php?cat=4

You won't be sorry!