Thread: Norton Roughness

Ok - as my Norton 4k/8k is now being shipped to me, this would be important to know. Rustyblade says he has a flattening stone...do I need one, or is is good enough if I simply get some 3M wet/dry sandpaper (1000 grit), strap it tightly against something flat and lap both the 4k and 8k sides with it? Is 1000 grit good enough?

As far as I can tell from the posts, this is how I should lap: You are supposed to draw a 1 inch by 1 inch grid in pencil on the hone and then use either figure-8 or circular motions until the grid is completely gone. Both sandpaper and hone should be wet. IS THIS CORRECT? ANY ADVICE WOULD BE GREAT!

If sandpaper is used and any grit is embedded in the hone, I understand I need to use a brillo pad and running water to buff the surface, but will I be able to actually see the grit, or only feel it?

I get a very smooth surface with 600 grit sandpaper and the 8k feels almost like glass. With 400 grit it feels only slightly rougher, and that's what I've been using to finish my 4k/8k.

-------Michael

Originally Posted by Razorburne

If sandpaper is used and any grit is embedded in the hone, I understand I need to use a brillo pad and running water to buff the surface, but will I be able to actually see the grit, or only feel it?

If you get grit stuck in your hone you won't be able to see or feel it with your hands, but your razor will feel it, and you can feel it indirectly through the razor - it'll feel like it's hitting speedbumps.

If you wet both sides of the sandpaper it will stick to whatever flat surface you're using for lapping. 1000 grit is fine, I use 600 grit myself. The norton should be soaked for 30 minutes before lapping it or honing with it. Especially when honing, it should have a puddle of water on it. And don't forget to dry it out thoroughly (couple of days) before putting it away to avoid mildew and mold.

Originally Posted by Razorburne

Ok - as my Norton 4k/8k is now being shipped to me, this would be important to know. Rustyblade says he has a flattening stone...do I need one, or is is good enough if I simply get some 3M wet/dry sandpaper (1000 grit), strap it tightly against something flat and lap both the 4k and 8k sides with it? Is 1000 grit good enough?

As far as I can tell from the posts, this is how I should lap: You are supposed to draw a 1 inch by 1 inch grid in pencil on the hone and then use either figure-8 or circular motions until the grid is completely gone. Both sandpaper and hone should be wet. IS THIS CORRECT? ANY ADVICE WOULD BE GREAT!

If sandpaper is used and any grit is embedded in the hone, I understand I need to use a brillo pad and running water to buff the surface, but will I be able to actually see the grit, or only feel it?

That is correct. Float glass is flat, (most glass is made by the float finishing process) Machined stone (ie marble/granite counter top) will be flat. I draw diagonal lines (because stones are most likely to develop belly in the centre) across the hone, but the idea is the same.

1000grit is very fine sandpaper. I would do the bulk of the flattening with 400 or 600 and finish with a quick rub on 1000 paper or on a fine stone (1000+) to refine the surface. However if the stone is flat, i do not feel that surface roughness on the stone really presents much of a problem.

Keith,

No, you don't need the flattening stone. It might be nice if you did a LOT of honing.

Depending how not flat your Norton is, starting out with an even lower grit would be OK. I've used 220 before, but you can wear away the stone pretty quickly with this...

Going up to 1K will put a nice polish on the stone. As you've seen here, there's some debate over whether a smoother feeling stone makes a difference. I just find my strokes easier to control when the stone is smooth.

Josh

Thank you gents. I bought some 1500 grit sandpaper today and a glass cutting board to slap the sandpaper to (the underside is smooth whereas the cutting surface is rough). I lapped the stone and the 8000k is smooth as glass. Lets just hope and can get those darn razors sharp now.

Thanks for all the info guys - if I run into any difficulty one my Norton comes in the mail, I will be sure to pick your brains.

Originally Posted by Razorburne

Ok - as my Norton 4k/8k is now being shipped to me, this would be important to know. Rustyblade says he has a flattening stone...do I need one, or is is good enough if I simply get some 3M wet/dry sandpaper (1000 grit), strap it tightly against something flat and lap both the 4k and 8k sides with it? Is 1000 grit good enough?

As far as I can tell from the posts, this is how I should lap: You are supposed to draw a 1 inch by 1 inch grid in pencil on the hone and then use either figure-8 or circular motions until the grid is completely gone. Both sandpaper and hone should be wet. IS THIS CORRECT? ANY ADVICE WOULD BE GREAT!

If sandpaper is used and any grit is embedded in the hone, I understand I need to use a brillo pad and running water to buff the surface, but will I be able to actually see the grit, or only feel it?

I suppose it would depend on how far out your stone is. Mine seemed far from flat, so the lapping stone did most of the work and then the sandpaper did the final finishing. It would have taken forever and many sheets of sandpaper.

Originally Posted by rustyblade

It would have taken forever and many sheets of sandpaper.

Actually, the sandpaper just gets the job started. The grit slurry that the sandpaper abrades from the hone does the rest. This is also one reason why the sandpaper grit isn't as important as you'd think.

Originally Posted by mparker762

Actually, the sandpaper just gets the job started. The grit slurry that the sandpaper abrades from the hone does the rest. This is also one reason why the sandpaper grit isn't as important as you'd think.

True, and 8k slurry smells awful as it turns out.