Thread: EF DMT for Bevel Set?

Originally Posted by gssixgun

What time and razors has taught me is that "Sneaking" up on the edge has the greatest tendency to creating smooth shaves YMMV

This..
While the 1200 grit DMT will cut steel in a hurry, I personally try most any other approach before going to such extremes in my honing.

Sneaking up on the edge was a good description, I liked that!

Originally Posted by gssixgun

It isn't about thinking it is about feeling and edge smoothness

Many people ask about why the Chosera 10k isn't a great finisher, the grit is higher then a Norton 8k after all, again about feeling...

The DMT's can cut steel, there is no doubt about it, but over the long term average they tend toward creating harsh fragile edges, not all razors, but a tendency..

This is exactly where we get the term YMMV,, the next razor you set the bevel with on the DMT 1200 might have a different contour on the bevel and the experience will be very different, only time and razors will tell...

What time and razors has taught me is that "Sneaking" up on the edge has the greatest tendency to creating smooth shaves YMMV

Makes perfect sense.

Originally Posted by Birnando

This..
While the 1200 grit DMT will cut steel in a hurry, I personally try most any other approach before going to such extremes in my honing.

Sneaking up on the edge was a good description, I liked that!

Considering how many times I went back to the 1k, I am confident I did what I could before going to the DMT.

Can't say any other blade has given as much of a challenge with the bevel as this one.

I'll consider the DMT an arrow in the quiver meant for aggressive action and will stick to the 1k for all other.

Originally Posted by MikekiM

Considering how many times I went back to the 1k, I am confident I did what I could before going to the DMT.

Can't say any other blade has given as much of a challenge with the bevel as this one.

I'll consider the DMT an arrow in the quiver meant for aggressive action and will stick to the 1k for all other.

You got it That is the best way I have found to think of it also

Some food for thought.

Many times bevel setting can be more problematic that just finding the appropriate stone. One thing that should be kept in mind is that you need to see that the bevel goes all the way from the top to the edge regardless of how much uneven wear there may be on both sides of the razor. This is really important to watch out for when you are working on a razor that has uneven flattening on the spine (tell tale) that is not the same on both sides.

I have spent hours on bevels and thought I had them only to be fooled at the end of a honing process when I examined the blade under the microscope. Depending on the wear itself or who may have messed with the razor before you, it is not uncommon for one side of the bevel to take and yet the other side is not completely there. If you look at the bevel under a loupe or microscope when you are honing, you can see this readily. When this happens, I will do circles on the side where the bevel is incomplete until I see that the stone I am using has done it's job on that side. Once this is accomplished, you can go back to X strokes on both sides and you should find that your bevels will be much better. It really doesn't matter whether you are using a DMT, 220, or 1K depending on how aggressive you want or need to be, but it is critical that the wear be even from the top of the bevel to the edge on both sides. The microscope or loupe is your best friend in these situations.

Hope this makes sense.

Have fun.

Another possibility.
The DMT will retain its shape whereas the King will not. If you spent a lot of time on the King did you keep it lapped flat ?

Also, the edge follows the spine. Adding tape will not correct spine issues.

Originally Posted by Lynn

Some food for thought.

Many times bevel setting can be more problematic that just finding the appropriate stone. One thing that should be kept in mind is that you need to see that the bevel goes all the way from the top to the edge regardless of how much uneven wear there may be on both sides of the razor. This is really important to watch out for when you are working on a razor that has uneven flattening on the spine (tell tale) that is not the same on both sides.

I have spent hours on bevels and thought I had them only to be fooled at the end of a honing process when I examined the blade under the microscope. Depending on the wear itself or who may have messed with the razor before you, it is not uncommon for one side of the bevel to take and yet the other side is not completely there. If you look at the bevel under a loupe or microscope when you are honing, you can see this readily. When this happens, I will do circles on the side where the bevel is incomplete until I see that the stone I am using has done it's job on that side. Once this is accomplished, you can go back to X strokes on both sides and you should find that your bevels will be much better. It really doesn't matter whether you are using a DMT, 220, or 1K depending on how aggressive you want or need to be, but it is critical that the wear be even from the top of the bevel to the edge on both sides. The microscope or loupe is your best friend in these situations.

Hope this makes sense.

Have fun.

You know, this is sheds some new light for me, thank you Lynn.

I've approached the razors I have worked assuming I had to keep the number of strokes/circles the same. I overlooked that one might intentionally spend more time on one side or section of the blade than another. Case in point.. though this particular blade's challenge was predominantly in the center on the back side, it also has a shallower bevel on at the toe on that side. I didn't attempt to even that bevel out. I assumed that since it was indeed making it to the edge, confirmed by the sharpie test, that it didn't matter if it were even toe to heel.

I'm not sure I understand WHY it needs to be even, but I now see that it should be.

Interesting that the spine wear is the same front and back, toe to heel. Not sure how that happens. Maybe a twist in the blade that the naked or untrained eye can't detect? I'll pay more attention at how the spine is worn, not just whether it is or not. Thanks Lynn!!

Originally Posted by onimaru55

Another possibility.
The DMT will retain its shape whereas the King will not. If you spent a lot of time on the King did you keep it lapped flat ?

Also, the edge follows the spine. Adding tape will not correct spine issues.

I'm pretty anal about checking the flatness before and after, so I'll say yes, it's flat.

I understand your comment on the edge following the spine. As Lynn said, if the spine wear is biased to either end and you add tape, it will change the bevel angle, but it's not going to correct the bias.

All good stuff folks.. Thanks!!