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Thread: A lot of hones and little knowledge.

  1. #11
    Irrelevant stimpy52's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 10Pups View Post
    1 k is ALmOST a must. With what you have stay at the 4k until you can shave with it. If the bevel is not set this may take what seems like forever but you have to use what you got. 1 layer of tape is a good idea to save your spine and will shorten the process (maybe not enough for you to notice). The bevel set is the key to sharp. If it's not there then you are wasting time with all the other hones. Cheap practice razors will keep you from crying if you really mess up. Like there others say a loupe is nice because you can see what your doing as you do it. You can lap those hones with sand paper and on a piece of glass. check out methods for doing that in the wiki.
    Honing has a learning curve just like using a straight so just pay attention to what your doing and keep at it. You'll get it.
    Good advice -- emphasis on "stay at the 4k until you can shave with it." It's just a personal thing, but 90% of my honing happens at the 4k level.
    Don't get hung up on hanging hairs.

  2. #12
    Senior Member mjsorkin's Avatar
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    First you have to acknowledge that you could easily put decades worth of hone wear on your razor while practicing until you get it right. If that doesn't turn you off, then keep reading.

    First start on the 4k and do x-strokes or circle method. Do this until all sections of the blade cut arm hair with zero effort and the bevel is polished At the very edge from toe to heel. The edge should feel very sticky to the thumb The 4k should work just fine on a new hollow ground razor.

    The last 10% of the job is on your 8k and 10 stones. You can do 15 strokes on 8k then 10 strokes on 10k. No tpt at this point. Just strop and shave.

    If that doesn't work then there are any number of things that might have gone wrong. At that point only speculation and practice will help you.

    The other option is to send that second razor to Lynn. You will get it shave ready with the minimum of effort and no unnecessary wear on the blade.

    Michael
    “there is the danger that the ignorant man may easily underdose himself and by exposing his microbes to nonlethal quantities of the drug make them resistant.”---Fleming

  3. #13
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Bob, first determine if the bevel is set. Here is a good video
    to test this.

    Chances are it is not, in which case you will have to set the bevel. It can be done use the 4k but it may take some time. There are good videos on honing and bevel setting.

    Really there is no recipe for honing as the work needed is dictated by the edge condition.

    Once the bevel is set, both bevels are meeting in a straight sharp edge, it is a matter of straighten the edge by removing the existing stria progressively, with finer grit stones to further refine the edge. Each progression removes the stria of the previous stone.

    75=80 percent of the work and honing problems, is setting the bevel. If the bevel is not set, you can polish all you want and not affect the edge, because there is no edge.
    BobH likes this.

  • #14
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    Thanks Laurens, I have looked at the many good ideas here on SRP. I have tried your pyramid method. I have a nice edge, not scary sharp. but a smooth effective 'sharp'. I like also because it is repeatable. I know that next time in a month or two, I have a template for re-newing it to shave ready. You give me the steps, and they are easy to follow. I am certain I'm a prolific over honer. It's in my nature. (Eg, the doctor says take two tablets, I take three! The SRP boys say 10 strokes I do 15!

    This time I followed yours to the letter despite the temptation of over-doing it. So, lovely edge, passes the thumb pad and HHT fine. I don't do thumbnail because I see no logical reason why you'd want to dull your blade to prove it's sharp. It'l like taking a poison you intend giving to an enemy to see if will kill the person......crazy. Have a good xmas from dowm town Australia.

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