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Thread: Chinese water stone question

  1. #11
    Senior Member blabbermouth edhewitt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phrank View Post
    Thanks Tack - just what I needed to read, something very succinct.

    Am going to put my coticule away for awhile, as I've read enough about the stones to know they vary widely.

    Just ordered a 12k Naniwa, and when I want to refresh ANY blade I have, I'm pretty confident I'll know what to expect with the 12k Naniwa, and, "5 or 6 light laps on a 12k Naniwa", is something eminently doable without fear of destroying or damaging a blade.

    I assume it needs to be lapped, I requested Fendrihan to lap it for me, hopefully they will.

    Thanks!

    edited to add: they won't lap it for me...time to do some reading!
    There is always a question within an answer isn't.there, sort of like a neverending quest
    Just to start things off: I have an atoma 400g lapping plate, and I am happy with it, nothing except wet and dry to compare it to mind you.
    Bread and water can so easily become tea and toast

  2. #12
    Contains ingredients Tack's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SuperSpeedRacer View Post
    On a side note: another thing that appeals to me about natural stones is that they're the sort that would have been historically used. Part of the appeal of straight razor shaving for me is the idea of favoring skill over technology.
    ..
    Oh, I agree.. hope I didn't give the impression that I am down on naturals - I have a pile of them - used regularly - as well as too many synthetics. If I had it to do all over again.. heh, well I'd probably make most of the same mistakes again, however the synthetic way is the less expensive. Naturals, particularly jnats, soak up money like sponges.

    Honing is part of the fun; it's very satisfying to be able to turn a letter opener edge into a fine, smooth shaving edge. That said, we could have a lifetime of great shaves by simply having each razor professionally honed once and maintaining it with a nice finisher thereafter. It all depends upon how far you wish to go into the rabbit hole.

    I think Phrank is exactly right about knowing what to expect from the 12K Nani - they are consistent, give predictable results, and are easier to learn than a natural stone. That's why they are so often recommended.

    Jrabi- sounds like you found a good C12K and, more importantly, have figured out how to use it to suit your face. That's what it's all about. Incidentally, I often use a coticule slurry on a jnat base stone if I need to do a bit more than finishing. It works for me as well.



    rs,
    Tack
    I have great faith in fools - self confidence my friends call it.

  3. #13
    The Great & Powerful Oz onimaru55's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SuperSpeedRacer View Post
    On a side note: another thing that appeals to me about natural stones is that they're the sort that would have been historically used. Part of the appeal of straight razor shaving for me is the idea of favoring skill over technology. That said I'm currently reliant on CROX paste which I'm sure didn't exist in the 19th century (or am I wrong? My knowledge of the history of material science is near non-existent).
    Google says Chromium was discovered in 1797.

    Light strokes on a flat bed strop shouldn't round your edge too much.
    Ideally, to exactly maintain the edge you have it needs to be touched up on something similar to what was used in the first place but there can be some overlap.
    Last edited by onimaru55; 01-08-2014 at 10:38 PM.
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  4. #14
    Striving for a perfect shave. GeauxLSU's Avatar
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    I got my Chi-Com stone from Woodcraft, and I think they have better stones than other vendors selling a like stone. I would never, ever buy one from somewhere like eBay. I also use a slurry stone cut from another Chi-Com stone that produces a milky-white slurry. After honing with 4000 and 8000 grit stones, I do 100 very light (low pressure) laps, continually thinning the slurry until I'm using nothing more than plain water.

    Something else I've tried is spreading maybe three drops of liquid CROX on the surface of the wet stone instead of a slurry. It seems to work with very hard blades.
    Sandycrack likes this.

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  6. #15
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    Geaux, I might try the CROX paste instead of slurry idea. I have way more of it than I probably ever need. I bought a big jar without realizing that I only need a tiny bit to coat my balsa strop.
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  7. #16
    Member Sandycrack's Avatar
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    I'm still a Noob to the whole honing thing, so I'm not the best person to answer this question - that being said - I purchased one because I needed a finishing stone and was working on a (very) tight budget. I bought one through Amazon. It arrived nicely packaged. It required very little lapping to achieve a usable surface. It raises a nice slurry and it works wonders on my razors. It was an excellent investment. It does what I needed it to do. I use this after the Norton 4k/8k.

    I plan to get a 16k the next few months just to sweeten the pot.
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  8. #17
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    I got my woodcraft PHIG today and tried it with a CROX slurry. It worked quite well.
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