Thread: My honing experience so far

Originally Posted by iMAGINE

Is that the only way to ensure you have a good bevel, by looking? I guess I need to do some work at 1k first then.

You can look, shave, do the thumb pad test, the nail test etc.

You can read all about these in the Wiki.

I like to look and test the edge by seeing how "willingly" it shaves my arm hair - everyone has their own ways of testing the bevel. You need to figure out what works best for you and stick with that.

John

It's a very good post. It can be frustrating. For me honing has two big issues. Diagnosis: clearly understanding the current geometry and applying the correct honing game plan, and patience: accepting that ultra high grit stones might be really slow.

The two create symbiotic like problems. You can hone for an hour and not see any improvement, and then get hit with the sense that you shouldn't be seeing any improvement anyway.

Eventually you learn to either see or feel changes instantly or know what to do to start achieving change.

Now, even today, I get a little stumped when people produce edges that are worse than when they started. I think that is created by effective contact, something most people have to work for a long time to achieve, followed by an inconsistent stroke.

You need diagnoses, full geometric bevel contact, then lots and lots of good consistent strokes -- polishing and honing.

I think the key everyone knows but no one has said is, "frustrating". If your frustrated, then it is hard to make it better. Take a step back, watch a movie, walk the dog, whatever. Then come back and work on it some more but most importantly, Have fun with it. If it isn't fun, then why do it.

Congratulations on taking up the challenge. Honing by hand is part science and part art.

The biggest mistake I see newbies make is too many strokes edge on, especially at the higher grits. Set the bevel with edge on strokes at the 1k and 4k level, but then finish with stropping strokes only at 8k on up. This will prevent you from killing the edge with too many strokes. I am a big fan of balsa CrO, and of course finish with leather.

The advice on this thread is very good. If you don't have a perfect bevel set at the lower grits, then it is unlikely that you will reach the blades full potential with more strokes at the finer grits.

Hang in there.

Originally Posted by Gammaray

Congratulations on taking up the challenge. Honing by hand is part science and part art.

The biggest mistake I see newbies make is too many strokes edge on, especially at the higher grits. Set the bevel with edge on strokes at the 1k and 4k level, but then finish with stropping strokes only at 8k on up. This will prevent you from killing the edge with too many strokes. I am a big fan of balsa CrO, and of course finish with leather.

The advice on this thread is very good. If you don't have a perfect bevel set at the lower grits, then it is unlikely that you will reach the blades full potential with more strokes at the finer grits.

Hang in there.

You're not suggesting spine leading strokes here are you?

I 'm just guessing but I doubt any of the SRP honemeisters use stropping strokes at 8k & up.
A light touch & simply not doing too many stokes will prevent you from killing the edge not the direction you hone.

Yes, I am suggesting only stropping strokes above 4k for newbies. Not as a long term solution, but to prevent killing the edge with too many edge forward strokes. This is not my usual routine, but I have seen it work for sons, brothers, and friends that I have helped to get started, until they are learn that "less is more" when it comes to honing the edge to perfection.

For what it is worth, the three stage honing of DE blades is done entirely in the stropping direction. The rotating, spiral grinders never go against the edge. This can be a very valid approach, especially when getting started. But it takes longer than edge forward strokes.

I use a couple of indicators for when the bevel is set. First, I feel for whether there's any part of the edge that drags more on the stone when I'm honing. What I'm looking for is that the entire edge smoothly glides over the stone. I also look for the edge undercutting the water evenly. I also hold the blade up to light and see if it reflects evenly all across the bevel. Finally, I use the thumbpad test and feel for the edge grabbing my thumb all along the length of the blade. Also I should be able to pop hair all along the blade. When that's the case I move up to a polishing grit.

P.S. I'd also suggest watching gssixgun's videos on honing. I used them to go from never honed anything but pocket knives to consistently getting awesome edges from completely dulled razors in less than a month.

So I just got done with my evening shave. Got some fresh Arko in the mail to try. The razor performed well. I have a very anglular face so I am still working on my technique. It may not be perfect but good enough to move forward.
On another note, I am digging the Arko. I love the smell! Threw some osage rub on top of it and I feel like a king. Nice and clean.

Originally Posted by onimaru55

I 'm just guessing but I doubt any of the SRP honemeisters use stropping strokes at 8k & up.
A light touch & simply not doing too many stokes will prevent you from killing the edge not the direction you hone.

+1

I'm no honemeister but I've never used stropping strokes on a hone and I get pretty consistent results most of the time.

-john