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Thread: Honing to nothingness :(

  1. #11
    Senior Member blabbermouth Geezer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Euclid440 View Post
    A while back I was removing some chips on a couple of razors and used a 600 and 1200 DMT to do so and bevel set both edges with the DMT’s. I could not get the edged even with the 1k on both razors the edges kept micro chipping.

    I suspect the DMT leaves too deep stria and a ragged week edge that will continue to chip on finer stones.

    I jointed the edge on the corner of the 1K about 2-3 strokes then re-set the bevel. It may take you 2 or 3 times to get down to good steel.

    Now, if using the DMT to re set a bevel I get the bevel flat and the edges close but leaving a thin sliver of steel before the bevels meet. Then complete the bevels until they meet with the 1K.
    I agree. Do not use circles on a DMY because the deep scratches can cause the final edge to crack off at the scratches. I found that out the hard way after bread-knififing a hard razor.
    ~Richard
    PS. I am glad the lapping helped!
    Be yourself; everyone else is already taken.
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  2. #12
    Senior Member miha's Avatar
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    I inspected an edge under a 10x magnification in the middle of setting a bevel and noticed some really miniature nicks, now reading your comments I guess that was probably caused with a DMT, since they weren't there before..

    nevertheless, thanks to all fo you for your help ...

    now this is a bit off topic, but hey, since I started the thread I'll let me slide this time (I hope mods will too) ..I was feeling kind of late night worky today (1 am and later) and decided to give it a try and make a leather/felt (all I had was thin one) strop on a board for a CrOx, that I haven't had yet ... I bought CrOx as a powder so I have to mix it with appropriate phase/solution,.. I was thinking Ballistol, any thoughts on that?

  3. #13
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    That will work, I use mineral oil but almost any oil will work, Ballistol works great on leather will make an old strop soft. I use Kremer’s Pigments powders and take a couple of drop of oil in a small glazed dipping sauce dish, 50 cents at a thrift store.

    Take a wooden coffee stir stick and scoop a small pile with the tip, probably a 1/8 of a teaspoon, about a half a peanut. Add to the oil and stir, clip the end of the stick with a pair of side cutters to make a flat tip and stir, add powder or oil to get the paste the consistency of thin sour cream or melting ice cream. You should end up with a ¼ to ½ a teaspoon.

    I apply with my finger in 2 or 3 inch X’s depending on the width of your strop. The X stripes should be about a ½ inch wide, two applications per stripe.

    The X’s work very well as it applies grit and polishes at the same time. You don’t need much paste to do a strop, less is more when pasting. Let dry overnight.

    The chipping is typical of a DMT stria. You may have to joint the edge 2-3 times to get to good hard steel on the edge especially if hollow ground. I lap a small flat about an 1/8 in. on the upper right corner of my stones just for this, so I have larger bearing surface, use light pressure when jointing.

    One easy quick way to check for micro chipping is run your Sharpie lightly along the edge from heel to toe, with just the weight of the sharpie. You will feel the fiber tip snag on any chips. A Q-Tip also works well for this and will snag the smallest chip without causing damage or dulling to the edge.

  4. The Following User Says Thank You to Euclid440 For This Useful Post:

    miha (02-19-2014)

  5. #14
    Senior Member miha's Avatar
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    hey guys,.. here's an update,.. last night I streched, glued/clamped a leather and (a rather thin) felt (this was all I got at the time given ) to a board, and pasted it with CrOx mixed with ballistol this morning, let it sit over a day (app 12hrs) and will give it a try tonight if I'll manage to get to it ...

    here's how it looks,...

    the making of
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    and the final product
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    Last edited by miha; 02-19-2014 at 06:05 PM.

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