Thread: Even honing

Ok, new to the whole honing thing, and I am posting like a madman today, so I thought I would ask.

I have a Bengall that I am trying to hone up, Norton 4k/8k - Shapton 12k - blade is in just unbeleivable condition, looks NOS - I can not really see a bevel it is so narrow. After a nice MAAS polish, tried the sharpness and the blade was shaving hair off my arm just nicely, still tugged a little. Blade looks straight and unwarped, so here we go to my question.

Did a non-agressive first pyramid on the Norton, then moved to the Shapton for a final polish, however, the Shapton was the stone that was taking most of the metal off the blade (pretty serious slurry) AND the wear pattern on the Shapton did not appear to be even. I made sure I had the blade flat, and it appeared that the stone was getting black right in the center, not on the heel or nose...

When a stone is obviously not removing equally, is it the stone of the blade? Is lapping in order, or do I need to start thinking about correcting a warped blade?

Thanks in advance.

K

Not that I have anywhere near enough experience to be taken seriously, but my first guess is the stone is uneven. Wait around for The Wise

Not sure if I qualify here, but I'd say a lapping is in order. All of the hones I've handled needed to be lapped right out of the gate. It certainly can't hurt anything.

Are you honing in an X-pattern or straight across the hone? Using an X pattern seems hard at first, but it's better in the long run, in my opinion.

Is the edge straight or slightly curved? A razor with a slight curve or smile will only hit the hone in the middle if you go straight across.

Josh

The blade could also be warped. Check for that, but in any case, lapping the stone won't hurt.

The blade is painfully straight, it really is spectacular - looks better shape than my brand new DOVO.

and the blade doesn't appear to have the same wear pattern on the Norton, so I am thinking it is the stone too - now what do I use to lap a Shapton, same flat surface and 600 grit paper, or something finer? Wet or dry paper?

K

Oh and I am really just going straight down the hones at this point, I have not been able to achieve a non- rocking x-pattern on the hones, and they are all 3", so I have been just trying to keep the buggers straight and flat - the blade appears to be flat Nortons and actually looks flat on the Shapton as well, but the wear suggests not - I stopped lest I create a frown. This sux, but I am going to get it.

If the blade has a smile and you're going straight down, then you'll only see swarf in the middle even on a perfectly flat hone. I'm not sure how significant the swarf patterns on the norton are because I get much more distinct swarf lines on the shaptons than the norton, so the same thing could be happening on the norton but the swarf is washed around and spread out more so it looks more even than it really is.

If you want to lap the shapton I'd use something finer than 600 grit, like maybe 2k grit sandpaper. Or if you have one of those synthetic marble tiles then just wet the stone and rub it directly on the tile - Shaptons are very soft stones and will quickly raise a slurry that speeds up the lapping.

First, if you never shaved with a Bengall, let me tell you they are Special. Really great Steel and a fabulous shaver.

The Shapton polish hone is just that, a very fine hone where you fine tune the edge to your face and how sharp you like the blade. If you haven't laped the stone, do it.

If you comming of the Norton with a Shave Ready Razor at 3 microns, that Shapton should get you close to 1 micron. Extremley light polishing passes.

What your doing is polishing and already shave ready razor edge to lower microns. This is were the light touch can bring that blade to glide through the beard with no pressure at all.

Bengall, great razor.

What do you think of your Shapton stone, I have read that they are very fast cutting, some times too agressive - what do you think? Are they worth sepnding any time on after the 4k/8k? I know I have dulled this particular razor, and will have to go back the pyramid - I just would rather do it on the 8k/Shapton - I have had a hard time finding crap razors, just when I think I have gotten one to use as a test razor, it turns out to be spectacular! BUT, I need to get the hang of this, my razors need some TLC and my face would sure appreciate it...

So a very fine sand paper for the Shapton - I don't have a marble tile but I do have some pretty flat pieces of heavy glass, that should work, yes? What is the best a paper to use, wet or dry - any particular brand names that I could pick up say at Home Depot? ( I don't htink they have anything that fine at the Depot, anyone know?)

Thanks for the replies,

K

Hey Vince,

I sprung for this razor on a BIN on the 'Bay after a tip from this forum, ($33.00 including shipping), I had heard of Bengalls, and while the pict was fuzzy (description said "mint" - yeah right), I figured it probably had problems and would be a great starter for honing - I get the thing, and it is stunning. Seriously. Cheesy plastic handle, box was beat - but except for some rust around the pin - it shown like glass - no abrasions or even discoloration, just mirror like steel. Really pretty - after MAAS, like absolutely new. I will post pictures if I can ever get it sharp. Might have to convince someone to make me some custom scales for this granpa.

K

At this point it becomes a preference, Shaptons are Good, Kitiyamas are good, Belgium yellow is good. They're are so many variations after the Norton it depends on what you like on your face. A lot of guys go to paste after the Norton, A lot of guys don't use a Norton, just a barber hone and paste.

This site has a lot of info on all aspects of Straight Razor Shaving. As for your Shapton, Norton, Kitiyama, etc. start with the manufacturers instructions and go from there. Straight Razor Shaving is a very personal thing. All razors are different, all beards are different.