Thread: Newbie Honer

Like Maladroit, I notice a lot of scratches left from a coarser hone. Looks like you need a grit between that and what you just used. You might want to throw an 8k in there between the 6 and the 12.

I agree with the posters who say to shave first then examine the edge. That way you'll know what you're looking at--an edge that shaves nicely, or one that still needs work. Otherwise you're just looking at an edge and scratching your head.

Also, you may be at a point where you don't yet know how good this shave SHOULD feel, if there's any should to it. Can feel might be better wording. You really should keep a pro-honed edge around as a reference; use it just once a month and put it away stropped and oiled until you take it out next month for a reminder how good this can feel. You might also find that it feels way better a month later than it does now. That's not because the blade got sharper in storage, it's because your technique improved--as it will, inevitably and forever.

Happy shaving to you

I ended up going back to the 1K and starting again, it seems like it is a lot easier to determine the bevel is set after having a shiny edge to compare against and make sure the whole edge is even. I used all 90° strokes on 1K then 45° on 6K so I could make sure I had removed all the previous marks, then went back to 90° for the 12K.

All stropped up and seemed to shave well. I do have a Pro honed razor, 5K and 8K shaptons ordered so will be waiting untill that all comes till I see if I need to do anymore.

Thanks Ash

Good idea to change directions on your grits. Glad to hear of your progress too. Enjoy your new goodies!

I constantly change directions in order to remove metal more efficiently and evenly. And that's what my mentor (video) does. I can see putting a few single direction strokes in _just for inspection with scope_ purposes. But mainly can go on scratch size if using magnification.

Shaving edges are made (or not) on the 1k bevel set. You can mess 'em up on any stone/strop, but you can't fix a bevel that leaves the 1k less than perfect on any higher stone.

(it might be theoretically possible, but completely impractical as we don't live long enough.)

Originally Posted by roughkype

Had a pair of Shaptons try to attack me through a fence yesterday. Damn yappy things.

Don't look them in the eye, they can smell fear...

I have received all my new toys and have been having another go. I retouched the edge of my Dovo with the new hones and can now get hair to pop off mid length with it. I used it and my new Wade & Butcher wedge on opposite sides of my face and got similar results from each them

I have also picked up a NOS Solingen BlueBell No 99 which is a half hollow but the edge I have put on it appears to be too harsh, it will give me a closer shave in one WTG pass than either of my others will with 2 passes but that also comes with burning and redness. Would that likely be more of a stropping issue or something I would need to go back to the hones for?

Originally Posted by MrAsh

I have received all my new toys and have been having another go. I retouched the edge of my Dovo with the new hones and can now get hair to pop off mid length with it. I used it and my new Wade & Butcher wedge on opposite sides of my face and got similar results from each them

I have also picked up a NOS Solingen BlueBell No 99 which is a half hollow but the edge I have put on it appears to be too harsh, it will give me a closer shave in one WTG pass than either of my others will with 2 passes but that also comes with burning and redness. Would that likely be more of a stropping issue or something I would need to go back to the hones for?

What hone did you finish with and how many laps? You may have over honed the razor, stropping more than usual may soften the edge...

Originally Posted by carlmaloschneider

What hone did you finish with and how many laps? You may have over honed the razor, stropping more than usual may soften the edge...

I finished with 20 laps on the 12K shapton 10 with slurry then 10 with clean water.

Slurry may not be necessary although many guys use it. You may try it water only and see. Personally with synthetics, I haven't found a good reason to use slurry, but YMMV as usual.

Yeah, I myself wouldn't have used a slurry for finishing, but I'm no expert. A slurry would contain small particles, wouldn't it? Glen (gssixgun) would have a better idea...