Thread: What did I do wrong with my Shaptons?

Originally Posted by Ruger

Was the razor honed with tape before and now you are not using it, if so then you are not hitting the edge

I finally had time yesterday to take the Henckels back to the hones. I tried the sharpie test and I can definitely say now that the razor was not taped previously.

This time I did the full pyramid. Unfortunately, the shave was not that much better. Definitely sharper than after my first progression, but nowhere near as sharp as the edge was when I received it. Good news is that my new Ralf Aust should be here anyday, so I'm not without a razor.

I guess it couldn't hurt to try some tape and see if I can get a better result. If that doesn't work I'll just have to ship it to a honemeister to reset the bevel I guess.

Thoughts? One layer of tape, or two?

Wait and compare.

Well, I've had two shaves with the Ralf Aust, and I have to say I'm not impressed

The Henckels had a better edge. From the factory at least. Not sure if I sure try another conservative pyramid on it, or try taping, or a combination of both.

My recent Aust blade had a serviceable edge from the factory, but not anything spectacular...along the lines of AAA baseball, not the World Series. Some quick work on a couple Naniwa SS stones (8k and 12k) really brought the edge out to Playoff quality (I'm not good enough to achieve World Series level edges). I think that is pretty much the standard with most production razors.

Forget the word "Tape" you are getting hung up on it

Decide before you wet the hone and pick up the razor if you are going to use tape or not, it is your choice and honestly it doesn't matter either way UNLESS there is a geometry issue.. The MM test should have let you know if there was, along with spine wear..

Forget everything that has happened in the past with the razor,,

Go watch Lynn's Shapton honing vid, or my Shapton honing vid, and follow one of them from start to finish, then strop and shave... give it a 110% effort to get it perfect, take your time don't rush...

Now if that Henckels doesn't pop an edge for you after that, I will hone it for you on my Shaptons so you have an idea of what is possible off those stones, shipping is on you, honing is on me


I do not expect to have to hone the razor I think you will get it right

Do you have a link to either you or Lynn's shapton videos by chance? Can't seem to find it in the library.

Edit: nvm, google is your friend.

Originally Posted by gssixgun

Forget the word "Tape" you are getting hung up on it

Decide before you wet the hone and pick up the razor if you are going to use tape or not, it is your choice and honestly it doesn't matter either way UNLESS there is a geometry issue.. The MM test should have let you know if there was, along with spine wear..

Forget everything that has happened in the past with the razor,,

Go watch Lynn's Shapton honing vid, or my Shapton honing vid, and follow one of them from start to finish, then strop and shave... give it a 110% effort to get it perfect, take your time don't rush...

Now if that Henckels doesn't pop an edge for you after that, I will hone it for you on my Shaptons so you have an idea of what is possible off those stones, shipping is on you, honing is on me


I do not expect to have to hone the razor I think you will get it right

Ok, I watched both videos. I ended up trying Lynn's technique only because he was starting with a factory edge, and mine was a factory edge before I tried to refresh it which started this whole thread. Plus, I don't have the 1K, 6K and 30K glass stones like you. I've got the 4k/8k/16k. I didn't use tape as the magic marker test proved it was not taped previously.

Results were....better. It's close to how it was shaving before I dorked it all up. Much less tugging, but maybe not as buttery smooth as I would like.

I really appreciate your offer to hone it for me, that's why you're the best, but I'd like to make this a learning opportunity. Can you offer any advice on where to go from here? I really don't think I need to reset the bevel, but I can pick up a 1K glass stone if you think that would help. Alternatively, maybe I need to work on my finishing? I don't have any pastes, but those are cheap if you think they could help refine the edge.

The 16k is a sweet stone, but it can be a bit harsh when you are learning it,,

You might try the 3-2-1 style Finish like I show on that Shapton Vid you might also try a light slurry dilution into the finish, these are things you are going to have to mess with as you adjust your honing to your face on a new system of hones... Yes a good quality CrOx or even better a high quality CeOx might very well smooth it right up..

But you are getting closer and that is a step in the right direction

Originally Posted by supersco

I really don't think I need to reset the bevel, but I can pick up a 1K glass stone if you think that would help. Alternatively, maybe I need to work on my finishing? I don't have any pastes, but those are cheap if you think they could help refine the edge.

I started with the same set up as you, except I had a 1k king from my wood working days. Latter I bought a Chosera 1k and latter the 1k & 2k shapton glass ( so I could have the whole set) thinking that it would work better all shapton glass progression. All systems worked fine. However I prefer 1K Chosera for bevel set and then go to the 4k, 8k and 16k, I now hardly use the 1k & 2k shapton glass any more.

Also, CrOx on hard wool felt strop is key to get an irritation free shave out of the 16k shapton glass, at least for me. Glen mention slury with the 16k glass and that works for me to some extent. Simpler, IMO, is the CrOx or CeOx thought.

For best comfortable shaves, I'm going to naturals now. Although one of my best shavers ever (Henckles Friodur) was finished on 16k and CrOx on hardwool felt strop. Went full circle with naturals and it didn't shave better, until I went back to 16k SG and CrOx. Just to show you sometimes the best it's in front of us, but we get on our mind that more exotic or expensive it's better!

Double O

Originally Posted by Double0757

I started with the same set up as you, except I had a 1k king from my wood working days. Latter I bought a Chosera 1k and latter the 1k & 2k shapton glass ( so I could have the whole set) thinking that it would work better all shapton glass progression. All systems worked fine. However I prefer 1K Chosera for bevel set and then go to the 4k, 8k and 16k, I now hardly use the 1k & 2k shapton glass any more.

Also, CrOx on hard wool felt strop is key to get an irritation free shave out of the 16k shapton glass, at least for me. Glen mention slury with the 16k glass and that works for me to some extent. Simpler, IMO, is the CrOx or CeOx thought.

For best comfortable shaves, I'm going to naturals now. Although one of my best shavers ever (Henckles Friodur) was finished on 16k and CrOx on hardwool felt strop. Went full circle with naturals and it didn't shave better, until I went back to 16k SG and CrOx. Just to show you sometimes the best it's in front of us, but we get on our mind that more exotic or expensive it's better!

Double O

This is very interesting to me as the razor in question is in fact a Henckles Friodur. Maybe when I get some spare cash I'll pick up a felt strop and CrOx. What are the practical differences between CrOx and CeOx when it comes to razors?