Thread: Honing first NOS razor

My question is, with a NOS razor, where do I start honing? Do I need to start at the beginning and set the bevel then go through the entire honing process or can I start on a coticule with medium slurry? Never done this before. Thanks.

I can't speak for anyone else but I start fresh. Go with my bevel setting on up.

First of all you need to deduct the level of sharpness you think it's at, If it's a decent maker or manufacturer it really shouldn't be to far away, so let say it's not quite shave ready by your standards, then what I would do personally give it 50 light strokes on the 8K then another 50 on the 12K strop the razor see how it shaves.

If the bevel is set it will start passing your (shave arm hair ) test. If not start at bevel set and proceed as you normally would.

I always test first, then strop and shave if it is close. You will know then where you are. Touch up or re set bevel. I use tape, most manufacturers would not have so I avoid bevel resets if I can touch up the factory edge to shaveable

+1 You may only need to strop it before shaving first. If it doesn't shave then figure out where to start. I usually start with about 40 on the 4K first. Answer me this, why does everyone think that they need to use a slurry to produce a fine edge? Honestly, I have NEVER used a slurry to get a good clean edge on a razor with no pulling, skipping or razor burn.

I find slurry useful when using a coticule. I only use a synthetic to set the bevel.

If it is a true New Old Stock, never having been honed, it was honed with the spine off the stone at the factory.

You will have to set the bevel.

Tape it and put it on a high grit stone with some ink on the bevel and see where the bevel is now. Chances are the grind is steep, will not touch the edge and will need a full 1k bevel set.

If I want to know where a bevel is, I do the above, otherwise just tape and re-set the bevel on a 1k.

So you tell us about a NOS razor and don’t post pics?

Shame on you, Enjoy

NOS is a term having retail significance describing it's sales status . It has absolutely nothing to do with condition.

So you need to evaluate what shave condition it's in. Examine it under magnification first. If the edge is free of defects and the bevel looks good and there are no warps, cracks or similar I'd strop and shave. If it doesn't shave so good then you can decide how extensive a honing it needs and if it need pretty extensive work I'd probably go right back to the bevel and go from there.

I used to set the bevel by default but now I'm conservative with a new razor. Many times I've found simply going to a finisher is enough. In some instances I didn't need to do anything but strop. Like everyone said, evaluate it first then decide where it needs to start. IMHO.