Thread: Refreshing with a 12k stone

Originally Posted by Domi

Do you use the SR directly after the finisher stone, or get it to pastes before stropping?

Some do, some dont. i dont.

Originally Posted by edhewitt

Some do, some dont. i dont.

I have often shaved directly after a 12K Droescher touch up. I usually strop on leather though. I have seen no need to use a diamond or paste strop. YMMV

OTOH, I now have a 16K Shapton and do not strop.

Dave

Originally Posted by OCDshaver

LOL, as we once discussed, this is the only natural stone assigned a grit rating.......contrary to every other thread on naturals stating quite strongly that naturals can not be categorized with grit ratings.

Assigned by whom?

If it is a natural stone that took thousands, perhaps millions of years to create, how is that possible?

While your stone may produce stria equal to a 12K, it is impossible and incorrect to say all such stones are the same grit much less 12K.

What ever the grit, these stones can be improved by burnishing with hard flat steel, as commonly done with Arks.

Originally Posted by Domi

Do you use the SR directly after the finisher stone, or get it to pastes before stropping?

I use a couple different finishing stones. Naniwa SS 12k or a Welsh slate. Both deliver a nice edge. I will usually use the Naniwa as the final stage of a progression utilizing other grits of Naniwa stones (5k, 8k, and when necessary 1k)

The Welsh slate is used after a coticule.

Traditionally my "more hollow" blades see the coticule/slate. The heavier grinds get the Naniwa treatment.

I have a Zulu Grey ordered...have to see later how that fits into the mix. From what I hear, that just might be a while though.

Never used pastes or sprays or any of that stuff; never had a need or desire to do so.

I asked because I had buy a 12k from whipped dog, and in the instructions they said to always go thru pastes before stropping.

Originally Posted by Euclid440

Assigned by whom?

If it is a natural stone that took thousands, perhaps millions of years to create, how is that possible?
.

It seems by everyone as it's often referred to as a Chinese 12k. The point being that it's a natural and thus not really possible to be a 12k.

Originally Posted by OCDshaver

It seems by everyone as it's often referred to as a Chinese 12k. The point being that it's a natural and thus not really possible to be a 12k.

One of the very early stone buys was the Chinese stone. At first I didn't like it but I tried to using It with oil.
And it's so much better then water as it gets no slurry dulling the edge.

My two cents it's cheap see what it sharpening like with oil. A thicker oil for a finer edge and a thinner oil for less fine and faster cutting.

Domi,

Paste can be used to add a bit more keenness, to smooth a harsh edge, or to maintain an edge with a bit of both.

You have to find a routine that works for you and your razor and the stones you have.

The most common paste is Chrome Oxide, and a good beginning paste. Your results will vary depending on the strop substrate, number of laps and the finish on the razor. Chrome Ox will smooth most edges.

But you may not need it. Try the razor off the hone, try it after stropping on leather and then try after some Chrome Oxide. Tailor your routine, to what works and feels best on your face.

Make sure you use the purest Chrome Oxide you can find for Straight Razors, not the green sticks from the hardware store, many of those contain very little Chrome Oxide and a lot of other stuff.

If you have never used a stone to touch up paste is a mighty fine starting point.

Your using the action you already know (stropping). And just touching up the edge.

Chrome oxide is a great paste. And not only highly regarded, but to a vast majority it is considered a staple part of the razor finishing process. It's not going to remove a lot of metal, but it will give a dulling edge that no longer strops back into shape a new lease of life.

The 12K naniwa is something I would not necessarily be wary of, but there are a lot of factors when you start to use rocks. You need to know how the razor was finished (as previously posted), How much tape to apply, How to apply the tape. This is all before the razor touches the stone. Once you get onto the stone you can mess things up very quickly. A duff stroke is all it takes to kill the edge.


Rather than buying the 12K see if you can get the newer naniwa 3K/10K combo. I know there is a shop in Europe selling them. I'm not sure about the USA.

Naniwa Super Stone 3000 / 10000 grit combi | knivesandtools.co.uk

The 10K will be a good refreshing hone.

And the 3K will allow you to pick up a cheap razor and attempt to set a bevel, and make sure you have your honing technique right before you attempt to refresh your shaving razor.

If you already have your 12K stone, then watch lot of videos. And test run the touch up with a butter knife so you can feel whats going on.

Gssixgun and Lynn Abrams youtube channels are very good places to start.

Originally Posted by Suile

One of the very early stone buys was the Chinese stone. At first I didn't like it but I tried to using It with oil.
And it's so much better then water as it gets no slurry dulling the edge.

My two cents it's cheap see what it sharpening like with oil. A thicker oil for a finer edge and a thinner oil for less fine and faster cutting.

I use oil on mine too. Works better for me as well. Thing that sucks about the oil though is, you (well I anyway lol) have to make sure you have all your other stones put away so you don't contaminate them. That and you need to wash the blade off with soap before putting it anywhere near a strop. Not the end of the world or anything - it's the same with my Arks, but its something you really needn't forget .