Thread: Restoration

I have just finished my first ever attempt honing a straight razor. In hindsight, I should've taken a "before" picture for comparison, but it's too late now.

The edge, under 20x magnification, looks like a clean, straight-edged mirror; and, the blade cuts easier than anything I've used before. I shaved afterward with it, and though it does indeed cut very easily, is it possible I've made it too sharp? My face hasn't been this irritated in months (since being much closer to newbie-hood). Or, could it be that I've become accustomed to my much more flexible Bismarck, and this one is just too rigid for my technique?

Stone progression was Norton: 220 (to grind out a huge chip), 1k, 4k, 8k, a Shapton 12k, a couple dozen laps on the chromium oxide-embedded webbing, and a hundred laps on the latigo.

Rich

Man its hard to answer your question - but I don't think you made it "too sharp.". You may have gone too heavy on the CrOx though. I use 1\3 of the laps you do, with really smooth results.

When I was starting I have to admit new to me blades gave me irritation as well. I don't know if it was techniques or honing, but it all went away with time.

Keep on plugging away! Congrats on your first hone!

If this is your first crack at honing, you seem to be doing very well at the outset. I notice that you may have a stabilizer bar issue, it seems to be long enough that it allows the stabilizer to ride up on your stones thereby raising the heel of the blade edge to ride up and off of the stone.

I would send that blade out to have the stabilizer properly ground off by someone who understands the problem. There should be no shiny spot on the stabilizer bar. Red flag there.

Strop it on clean linen and leather and then shave again but go light on the pressure. I am thinking that you have become accustomed to a "passable" razor by applying to much pressure when shaving. A light touch is all you should need. Have you checked for a mentor in your area that could help you out? Just my $0.02.

Originally Posted by mrsell63

If this is your first crack at honing, you seem to be doing very well at the outset. I notice that you may have a stabilizer bar issue, it seems to be long enough that it allows the stabilizer to ride up on your stones thereby raising the heel of the blade edge to ride up and off of the stone.

I would send that blade out to have the stabilizer properly ground off by someone who understands the problem. There should be no shiny spot on the stabilizer bar. Red flag there.

This was my first crack at honing a straight razor, but I've been honing knives for years. I hadn't thought about grinding on the stabilizer - I figured everything would be ground down as the edge progressed toward the spine.

Originally Posted by guitstik

Strop it on clean linen and leather and then shave again but go light on the pressure. I am thinking that you have become accustomed to a "passable" razor by applying to much pressure when shaving. A light touch is all you should need. Have you checked for a mentor in your area that could help you out? Just my $0.02.

I've been SR shaving now since Jan/Feb, and I have been back-and-forth with a mentor in my town - he fixed me up with two blades that I've been using along with my Bismarck during that time. I'm pretty sure that I use a light touch when shaving, but I know there's always room for improvement. He's already agreed to have a look at the blade the next time I meet up with him.

Originally Posted by JimmyWetshaver

A couple observations. It looks a tad heel heavy/toe light pressure wise but very good considering it is one of your first honings. Are you using an x stroke?
One other thing re shave comfort, I personally found more laps on my finishing stone and fewer crox laps gave me a more comfortable shave. In fact I rarely use CrOx anymore but when I do I dont go over 15 laps. I like your 100 lap plain strop methodology. It has proved to provide a better shave for me. Sometimes you just have to experiment and find out what works for as far as shave comfort goes. Although the protocol may vary it seems like for me I have struck upon a progression that works very well for me with the majority of my razors.
How does this edge look under loupe compared to the edge you are more comfortable shaving with?

Strokes are straight down the long side of the stone with the blade perpendicular to stroke, and X on the strop. Under the loupe, the very edge itself is straight and square, although this morning's inspection has revealed pitting on the flat-ground part of the edge that I missed yesterday (I'm in sunlight now whereas yesterday was rather dull lamp-light). Other than that, the edges between blades appear very similar.

So you are not using x-stroke to hone? Might make for oversharpened blade on heel, toe, or middle. Go 20 strokes on CroOx and strop on fabric/leather good. Takes off microscopic "teeth" and smooths out the edge. This has worked for me.
IF there is pitting in the edge, not gonna smooth out till it has been addressed. JMO

Run it by!

Originally Posted by rkuchenbecker

This was my first crack at honing a straight razor, but I've been honing knives for years. I hadn't thought about grinding on the stabilizer - I figured everything would be ground down as the edge progressed toward the spine.
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You will find that there is a world of difference between knives and razors. The stabilizer is thicker than the blade edge and as soon as it rides up onto the stone, your blade edge at the heel end will lose contact with the stone. If you would look at the many photos of razors on this site or anywhere else, you will immediately see the diff between your stabilizer and a properly formed stabilizer. You will also notice that there are no shiny spots on a properly formed stabilizer bar. Good luck to you......

P S: Just noticed you are in Texas. There are a bunch of knowledgeable people all around you in TX who would know how to handle your stabilizer issue.

Besides all the other good advice I have found from my own experience that sharper blade means a lot less pressure and less angle. Pits on the bevel are not as big a deal as pits on the edge. If you have pits on the edge. OUCH.

Originally Posted by 10Pups

Besides all the other good advice I have found from my own experience that sharper blade means a lot less pressure and less angle. Pits on the bevel are not as big a deal as pits on the edge. If you have pits on the edge. OUCH.

Yes - bevel is the word I needed. There are pits on the bevel, not on the edge.