Thread: how do you use the coticule

IF the Coticule edge looks just like it's off the 4K - this does not explain the inability to pass the HHT after the Coticule (because I pass the HHT off 4K before I move to 8K or Coticule)

I said it looks "like" or similiar to the scratch pattern after the 4k. Doesnt mean it is the exact same grit size. But the fact remains that if the bevel looks less polished after the coticule than off the 8k, that particular coticule is useless as finishing stone.

For all those with the misfortune to be stuck with a dud coticule(like me),here is a suggestion.Follow your normal pre-coticule routine then, when it comes to the coticule,build up a slurry with a nagura stone or small piece of coticule(whatever you normally use).Now,transfer the slurry from the stone to the ball of your thumb by wiping the stone across it or the ball of the thumb across the stone,whichever worksbetter.Next,begin using a stropping motion with the razor back and forth along theball of the thumb(a stropping method recommended by Dovo among others).Occasionally add a drop of water to keep the slurry moist as required.Because only about a third of the razor is in contact at any one time,I generallymultiply the number of strokes that would have been used on a stone by threeor even four but because they are so short it is very quick.After stumbling on to this method after a long period of intense frustration when it seemed like the garbage bin offered the best solution to the problem,I've used it many times now,always with excellent results.I hope this will be some help to others.

I am really interested what is a "dud" Coticule - what's the difference with the good ones, etc... I have 3 of them and they are all nice. Two are from Howard - I am sure that he would replace a stone if it's not up to par...

Cheers
Ivo

Originally Posted by rwp

For all those with the misfortune to be stuck with a dud coticule(like me),here is a suggestion.Follow your normal pre-coticule routine then, when it comes to the coticule,build up a slurry with a nagura stone or small piece of coticule(whatever you normally use).Now,transfer the slurry from the stone to the ball of your thumb by wiping the stone across it or the ball of the thumb across the stone,whichever worksbetter.Next,begin using a stropping motion with the razor back and forth along theball of the thumb(a stropping method recommended by Dovo among others).Occasionally add a drop of water to keep the slurry moist as required.Because only about a third of the razor is in contact at any one time,I generallymultiply the number of strokes that would have been used on a stone by threeor even four but because they are so short it is very quick.After stumbling on to this method after a long period of intense frustration when it seemed like the garbage bin offered the best solution to the problem,I've used it many times now,always with excellent results.I hope this will be some help to others.

RWP, this is cool and ingenious and all, but I have to wonder. The slurry is what does the cutting. That's true whether it's on the stone surface or the surface of your thumb. If the slurry once transferred to your thumb is giving you good edges, then I don't think you have a dud coticule. I think what's more likely is what was mentioned earlier by Ivo and Randy: the slurry as you prepared it on your stone was too thick, which dulls the edge. When you transferred it to your thumb, you thinned it out enough and are now getting good edges.

That's my guess anyway.

The idea of transferring the slurry to another medium is an interesting one, though. I wonder if you worked up a big slurry and then spread it out very thinly over a linen strop.

am really interested what is a "dud" Coticule

one that is to course. Remmber the coticule is supposed to be a finishing stone, therefore very fine. Some of the newer ones seem to be a bit courser than the vintage stones and therefore unusable as a finishing stone.

i have a 'newer' one bought from here and it finishes extremely well. Possibly might be different grades of newer stone?

Spritz water on your coticule and raise a milky slurry. The belgians call it an "abrasive milk" and it should be the consistency of milk. Things to consider. First, I don't overly rely on the HHT as it is an inconsistent test. The important thing is, does the razor shave your face well? Second, no one can tell you how many laps to do. You have to "feel" that with the razor. Suspend your thinking and feel it with your fingers and hands. It's a Jedi thing. Third, the stone is not the problem although the razor may be! I've seen far more inconsistency in razor steels and heat treatments than I have in coticules and I've seen and worked with A LOT of coticules. I know guys who use certain stones with certain razors and not with others. I'm not talking about the gross disparities between say a Pakistani razor and a Double Duck but more about the fine differences between a Dovo and a TI. You have to experiment and find out for yourself. Don't worry that you can't do it. You can. You were born to this. Your brothers have been honing steel for 5,000 years and you are the end product of this evolution.

Originally Posted by dylandog

RWP, this is cool and ingenious and all, but I have to wonder. The slurry is what does the cutting. That's true whether it's on the stone surface or the surface of your thumb. If the slurry once transferred to your thumb is giving you good edges, then I don't think you have a dud coticule. I think what's more likely is what was mentioned earlier by Ivo and Randy: the slurry as you prepared it on your stone was too thick, which dulls the edge. When you transferred it to your thumb, you thinned it out enough and are now getting good edges.

That's my guess anyway.

The idea of transferring the slurry to another medium is an interesting one, though. I wonder if you worked up a big slurry and then spread it out very thinly over a linen strop.

dylandog,you might be right about the thickness of the slurry being the determining factor but one thing I did notice when generating the slurry was that I could never get anything like the amount that Lynn got on the dvd, so I always had the impression that there was too little rather thantoo much.For what its worth,my theory about why the method seems to work is that the over coarseness of the cutting particles on the surface of a poor stonenegates the good work being done by the particles in the slurry(whichhave broken down into finer grits, if what the Japanese say about theway that natural stones work is correct).When this surface is removed asa factor the fine slurry can work unimpeded.That is all just speculation of course but it seems to work.

Originally Posted by Howard

Don't worry that you can't do it. You can. You were born to this. Your brothers have been honing steel for 5,000 years and you are the end product of this evolution.

Well said

I don't think it has been raised yet, but could it be that your coticule's not flat, Bruno? (And so it affects the honing.)

I was shocked at how 'unflat' (ok X, I'm expecting some grammar punishment for that one!) my coticule was when I got it. I didn't do my research properly and got straight to it with my Dovo. Next thing I know I managed to dull it.

When I got my Norton flattening stone I did the whole grid thing on my coticule. Took some time doing too because the stone had such a curve on it. As soon as it was done I could tell the difference.