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Thread: Can't get the edge to a point

  1. #11
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    I said I was not familiar with the stones you were using and just assumed you were using the equivalent of a 1K Nani for setting a bevel. I should not have assumed and by all means step away from the 320 grit stone for a basic bevel set. Sorry.

    Bob
    Life is a terminal illness in the end

  2. #12
    Senior Member guitstik's Avatar
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    Glen is an expert at honing razors and has done 1000's of them over the years and with that comes the experience to do it that way. I don't use tape but if you want to just use one layer and replace it as necessary.
    SRP. Where the Wits aren't always as sharp as the Razors
    http://straightrazorplace.com/shaving-straight-razor/111719-i-hate-you-all.html

  3. #13
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    Thanks for all the advice! Honestly, its really appreciated. I'm going steer clear of the course india stone and stick to my soft ark. I know they tend to be slower than most synthetics so I know to not expect much change in a couple minutes. I will get to honing and see what I can do. Another quick question, the other razor had no spine wear and no bevel. Could this be because it was not used or do you think that the previous owner had done something to make it this way? I am in the process of setting the bevel with my soft ark and I am starting to get it to be able to cut hair.

  4. #14
    Senior Member guitstik's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JS1031 View Post
    Thanks for all the advice! Honestly, its really appreciated. I'm going steer clear of the course india stone and stick to my soft ark. I know they tend to be slower than most synthetics so I know to not expect much change in a couple minutes. I will get to honing and see what I can do. Another quick question, the other razor had no spine wear and no bevel. Could this be because it was not used or do you think that the previous owner had done something to make it this way? I am in the process of setting the bevel with my soft ark and I am starting to get it to be able to cut hair.
    Honestly, there really isn't any way to know even if you posted a picture of it. There are to many reasons why a razor would be in that condition and I would only be guessing at it. We do have a few members here that could come up with an answer for you so go ahead and post a before picture if you have one.
    SRP. Where the Wits aren't always as sharp as the Razors
    http://straightrazorplace.com/shaving-straight-razor/111719-i-hate-you-all.html

  5. #15
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    Its a little too late, i was working on this one during these posts when I set the other one aside.. I already set a bevel on it. There was nothing wrong with this blade at all, I was just curious as I haven't seen a blade with no bevel on it.

  6. #16
    Senior Member Havachat45's Avatar
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    If it has no bevel or spine wear it may be an unused razor.
    I got one on EBay some time ago. It was described as MIB and it wasn't until I got it that I realised that it should have been NIB (New In Box).
    Hang on and enjoy the ride...

  7. #17
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    Alright guys, just an update. I stuck with the soft ark and worked on the edge for a while. It seemed to put a tiny/thin bevel on the edge, still not cutting hair though. I tried the permanent marker test and it seems that when I lay the razor flat on the stone it doesn't hit the edge of the blade. It seems to hit a bit higher. To remove the marker I need to lift the spine about 5-10 degrees off the stone. Any ideas on what my next move should be?

  8. #18
    Senior Member guitstik's Avatar
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    It may be that someone has done a bevel set with a large amount of tape if there is clearance between the edge and the stone, either that or... When was the last time you lapped the stone? Before I start honing a razor I lay it on a flat piece of glass or a granite slab that I use for wet/dry lapping. The reason I do that is to get an idea of what I will have to deal with on a stone, if the razor has a problem I want to know ahead of time. I always lap my hones prior to doing any razor work to ensure that I have as flat a work surface as I can get but I never use the hone as a "straight edge" for the razor, that is what the glass is for.
    SRP. Where the Wits aren't always as sharp as the Razors
    http://straightrazorplace.com/shaving-straight-razor/111719-i-hate-you-all.html

  9. #19
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Could you post a couple of photos of the blade including a head on one of the blade to see what the grind is like?

    Bob
    Life is a terminal illness in the end

  10. #20
    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    http://straightrazorpalace.com/honin...bing-over.html

    Read rule #1...

    1. Learn to walk away, if a razor has you stumped, learn to walk away, set that razor aside, and move to the next one, or get up and go do something else.. Sitting there Grinding on a razor normally achieves nothing good.. I have read posts where people are putting in more then 1 hour on one hone, that is just too long...

    Now after grinding on that thing for hours you have finally decided to seek help, after you wiped away all the clues that might have been on the razor to help us help you.. Now we have an entirely new set of issues that you have introduced to the spine and edge...

    Hint #1 - Set this razor aside until you have much more experience

    Hint #2 because you won't listen to #1 Put 3 layers of tape on it and do the MM test and see what happens, that will help mask the spine wear at least

    Simple fact, now you have to learn to hone around the errors, or what we call "Honing Gymnastics"
    Last edited by gssixgun; 08-05-2014 at 01:50 PM.
    cudarunner and BobH like this.

  11. The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to gssixgun For This Useful Post:

    cudarunner (08-05-2014), guitstik (08-05-2014), JS1031 (08-05-2014)

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