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08-09-2014, 03:06 PM #11
- Join Date
- Sep 2009
- Location
- SE Oklahoma/NE Texas
- Posts
- 7,285
- Blog Entries
- 4
Thanked: 1936This is why I recommend that folks new to our sport learn to touch up a blade first and work backwards. Setting a bevel is not an easy challenge as you have learned. No matter what we do or say, you need to sit down next to a veteran honer to learn the "right" way to hone. Pressure is your friend and enemy, you have to know when and where.
An ebay special can give even the most experienced honer a tough time and we have experience on our side. We may try x strokes, back strokes, different stones, and so forth.
If you insist on learning to bevel set, do yourself a favor and your razor...FIND A HONING MENTOR. You may have to drive a little ways, but you will sure come back thinking "why didn't I do that earlier".Southeastern Oklahoma/Northeastern Texas helper. Please don't hesitate to contact me.
Thank you and God Bless, Scott
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08-09-2014, 03:41 PM #12
- Join Date
- Apr 2008
- Location
- Saint Paul, Minnesota, United States
- Posts
- 2,943
Thanked: 433Bevel setting can be a pain. Things to look for or try: 1st check for a frown, even a small one can really mess up bevel setting. Try 1-2 layers of tape if there is hone wear, it can make all the difference. Try killing the edge on a glass or corner of the stone and start over, this can sometimes help.
For what it's worth a Clauss razor was one of my biggest PITA razors ever but I finally got it by adding another layer of tape.
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The Following User Says Thank You to rodb For This Useful Post:
tintin (08-09-2014)
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08-09-2014, 03:53 PM #13
tintin! Snap out of it man!! Its a journey! The destination can only be found after the journey is sought!! That's why its an art! And why we respect those who have been there!!
Lol!!
OK, so the first thing I would tell you is to tape the spine. We can all grumble later if one should or shouldn't tape the spine - right now, as you master the journey, you need to protect and keep the spine consistant. Take it from a dude who wishes he had!
Next - note that everyone's journey is unique. For whatever reason, the pyramid system does not work for me! I can't chew gum and walk at the same time either - oh well lol. But that's not to say you are going to reinvent the wheel either. The fact is, you are going to rub your bit oh steel over a flat surface till its ready to be rubbed on a smoother and smoother surface... how far you go is dictated by your face.
My journey as of today, sees me finding bevel setting of up most significance. You don't want to overdo this stage - its aggressive! But you can't really move on without doing as much. Best thing is, once done, you probably will never need to do it again.
Focus on this stage. Google it - YouTube it. Ensure you create an even bevel the length of the blade.
Traditionally, one would then spend enough time on their 1k to remove the scratches created by the bevel setting stage ending with very light strokes which in theory will help the next stone take out those more aggressive 1k scratches - so on and so forth.
I got to reading the Japanese honemister who spent more and more time as he went up the progression and have become a fan... But its all the same thing. Its about creating a smoother and smoother edge, one with the least irregularities.
But none of that magic can happen without getting a even bevel first. At least that's my take.
Enjoy the struggle!! Believe it or not - you are learning a ton!! Have fun man - hope that helps!
PS - I have been known to breadkife a blade before bevel setting. It focuses me.David
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The Following User Says Thank You to earcutter For This Useful Post:
tintin (08-09-2014)
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08-09-2014, 05:37 PM #14
thanks everyone for your help/encouragement. one thing i've learned through this process is that i have wasted a lot of money on razors that i thought were reparable and would be good practice.
this one doesn't have a lot of spine wear but it is slightly warped. i have been using tape but not changing it at every level. i think i'll put it aside and try one that is in better shape.
How does the thumbnail test work? do you draw the razor across the nail like your cutting it? what should it feel like? do you angle the nail or leave it flat?
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08-09-2014, 06:04 PM #15
I'm a newbie also. I have learned a lot watching the Lynn Abrams videos and reading the great information at SRP. Dull the edge by rubbing it over a flat piece of glass. Next, use a sharpie and mark the bottom of the edge. Start on the 1k stone and see if your removing the sharpie mark across the entire length of the blade. Mark the edge at each progression as you move up the stones. Good Luck
Last edited by feltspanky; 08-09-2014 at 06:09 PM.
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The Following User Says Thank You to feltspanky For This Useful Post:
tintin (08-09-2014)
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08-09-2014, 06:40 PM #16
- Join Date
- Apr 2008
- Location
- Saint Paul, Minnesota, United States
- Posts
- 2,943
Thanked: 433The thumb nail test should feel like it's sticking and cutting in a bit and not sliding over the nail.
Research "rolling x-strokes" for warps and also narrower hones also help with warps
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to rodb For This Useful Post:
FacialDirt (08-11-2014), tintin (08-09-2014)
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08-10-2014, 06:21 AM #17
tintin,
In addition, the thumb-nail test will readily show ifyou have rough spots on the edge.
Have fun
Best regards
Russ
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08-13-2014, 04:25 AM #18
- Join Date
- Apr 2012
- Location
- Diamond Bar, CA
- Posts
- 6,553
Thanked: 3215Post photos, man.
The first rule of restoration is… Buy a razor in the best condition, you can afford.
First set the bevel and learn how to tell when the bevel is set. Do not proceed to the next stone until you are absolutely sure the bevel is set.
The TNT is a destructive test, if the bevel was set you most probably will ruin the edge with the thumb nail.
A better non-destructive test is lightly run a felt tipped marker or a Q-tip lightly along the edge. Any chip or where the bevels are not meeting will snag the fiber tip or Q-tip.
Tape the Spine, if the marker test shows you are not reaching the edge, add another layer of tape, change the tape if it starts to wear.
Post Photos, without them we are all guessing as to how to resolve your problem. It may be a simple problem to resolve.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Euclid440 For This Useful Post:
tintin (08-13-2014)
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08-13-2014, 09:40 AM #19
i'll give the q tip test a try, i moved on to another razor and was able to get a decent shave out of it. i ditched the pyramid method and just looked at the scratch pattern. it was still a guessing game (or more like trial and error) but i got it to work. won't have time till after the weekend to post pictures but i'll do it then
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08-14-2014, 06:58 PM #20
- Join Date
- Aug 2013
- Location
- West Jordan, Utah
- Posts
- 182
Thanked: 23I still consider myself a newbie but as I started honing there were many times I was sure the bevel was set by using the TNT and shaving arm hair and then I would move up to the 5k SS and the edge would mysteriously regress. That caused all sorts of confusion and made me question whether the bevel was ever set. As I have gained experience and feel I've determined that the bevel was most likely set, but when I moved up to the next stone I was killing the edge because of my inconsistent strokes.
As has been said this is most definitely a journey. Be patient with yourself (unlike me) and don't set expectations too high too soon. It takes all the fun out of it!
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The Following User Says Thank You to coryschmidt For This Useful Post:
tintin (08-14-2014)