Thread: Honing a Filarmonica

Originally Posted by randydance062449

If u have tried many times and still no luck then I would go back to the 4K and rework the bevel very carefully. That has been a problem for me in the past also and by assuming that the bevel is "off" and reworking it then that has almost always worked.

To me the establishment of the bevel is the single most important step of honing.

Just my two cents,

The discussion is very helpful. I will start from the beginning and hopefully get there. I don't like it when the struggle beats me.

I had the same problem with my new 7/8 Fil but not with my old Filies. I found the same as randy that getting the bevel set correctly helped in the end. I did this on my 4k Norton but with circular motion @ 45 degrees to the hone. Then went to my 8k Norton when I detected and edge starting. On the 8k I did the same circular honing but when the edge started to show sweet on the nail I turned to light 45 degree X pattern, checking every 5 laps. After every 5 laps I back honed for 1 then till I got a cleen HHT. I then finished on my old hone of uknown type with 2 laps then a back hone of 1 for 4 reps finishing with 5 very light laps as normal.
Every other way I tried failed and this was how I eventually got there. I must say I think it will hold and edge for a long time from the strop because it has done over 10 shaves now and still gets better.

PuFF

I had one of the CS 7/8 Fils honed by Lynn, and have enjoyed it. I couldn;t get is sharp enough, and Lynn was the last straw before it went up for sale.

I belive Lynn said that these are stainless steel, and that is the reason that they are a little difficult to hone for some.

Boy, am I glad I only have a NOS vintage 14... This thing is one of my very very best shavers and came almost shave ready... I think I only did some laps Lithide on it

Seems quite involved to get the CS one going...

Cheers
Ivo

I had the same problem with my Filarmonica Doble Temple. Finally got some advice to start with a taped spine, on 1000 grit sandpaper and then go from there. It made all of the difference...it's now one of my best shavers. The hones I used are old unknown barber hones (and I know that doesn't help any) but I hope the sandpaper part does.

-Pary

Sounds like the problem's a combination of two things in the new Fillies : very hard steel and a factory bevel that's more off than usual.

Please excuse if I start all over again with my "old rules" of unknown origin.

The old rule:
"The harder the steel, the softer the rock (grindstone could be the better word?)"


One of "our german experts" in sharpening straight razors always recommends the Thueringer Water Grindstones (I think they are only available from Müller´s MST Works by now) for stainless-steel and other very hard steels like the Filarmonicas have.
I wouldn´t specially call this one a very soft grindstone but it definetly sharpens Friodurs like no ohter grindstone I have tested yet.
There is hardly any pressure needed while grinding the blade on it and as far as I have used one there is no big problem with the micro-chipping on stainless-steel blades.

But, that might be the problem, I guess those Thueringer MST-Grindstones are not very common in the US?

Has anyone of you ever tried one of those on yet?

Originally Posted by Scarface Germany

Please excuse if I start all over again with my "old rules" of unknown origin.

The old rule:
"The harder the steel, the softer the rock (grindstone could be the better word?)"


One of "our german experts" in sharpening straight razors always recommends the Thueringer Water Grindstones (I think they are only available from Müller´s MST Works by now) for stainless-steel and other very hard steels like the Filarmonicas have.
I wouldn´t specially call this one a very soft grindstone but it definetly sharpens Friodurs like no ohter grindstone I have tested yet.
There is hardly any pressure needed while grinding the blade on it and as far as I have used one there is no big problem with the micro-chipping on stainless-steel blades.

But, that might be the problem, I guess those Thueringer MST-Grindstones are not very common in the US?

Has anyone of you ever tried one of those on yet?

I have a Hunsrueck/Eifel that I got from Tony Miller at thewellshavedgentleman.com. I think Tony is or was investigating the Thuringens- not sure where that went. I'll let him comment.

The Hunsrueck has been a great finishing stone for me (chromium what? ) and worked very well with my stubborn Filly.


Jordan

Originally Posted by jnich67

I have a Hunsrueck/Eifel that I got from Tony Miller at thewellshavedgentleman.com. I think Tony is or was investigating the Thuringens- not sure where that went. I'll let him comment.

The Hunsrueck has been a great finishing stone for me (chromium what? ) and worked very well with my stubborn Filly.


Jordan

Jordan,

it probably worked well simply because it's a faster cutter (I hear, haven't tried). It is harder than Thuringens and Eschers, according to Tony, and cuts faster.

Keep an open mind about chromium (Lynn said "wowza" about it, even if you choose to disregard others' praises - this should be enough of an incentive to try, it's cheap anyway)

Cheers
Ivo

Originally Posted by izlat

Jordan,

Keep an open mind about chromium (Lynn said "wowza" about it, even if you choose to disregard others' praises - this should be enough of an incentive to try, it's cheap anyway)

Cheers
Ivo

I agree Ivo. I made that statement tongue-in-cheek based on all the hoopla. I still use my green paste regularly- just not as much.

Jordan