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Thread: Shoulder hitting edge of the hone

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    Member jamesrupertball's Avatar
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    Default Shoulder hitting edge of the hone

    Hi all,

    I'm starting the painful experience (for me) of learning to hone. I'm using a Norton 4/8 and find that the shoulder of my razor is hitting the edge of the hone when I do an x stroke. I especially feel it when the shoulder is off the hone and the x stroke brings it onto the hone. I feel the razor go up a little and can hear the bump.

    The hone has been lapped, with the edges lapped slightly more to make sure they're lower. Happens on both sides, 4k and 8k. I have looked for an answer but nothing has solved it in an hour of reading! Any help would be appreciated.

    Thanks!

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    Senior Member bongo's Avatar
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    If I understand you correctly, it sounds like you're trying to hone up to and including the stabiliser(s) ?

    If this is so, check out this thread with particular reference to Chev's post #9.

    LINK: http://straightrazorpalace.com/razor...deficient.html
    Last edited by bongo; 08-23-2014 at 10:11 AM.
    http://straightrazorplace.com/workshop/18504-welcome-workshop-how-do-i-where-do-i-what-do-i-answers-here.html

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    A heel leading stroke is what you need with heavy shoulders.

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    Senior Member blabbermouth edhewitt's Avatar
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    Hey James, i am no expert and am not 100% on what you mean, but it sounds like you are just going too far towards the stabilizer. Just stop the X before the stabilizer hits the hone.
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    Senior Member blabbermouth ace's Avatar
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    Just start with the shoulder off the hone and hone away from it.

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    I would like to see a pic of this blade. You may need to grind some of the stabilizer so that the bottom of the stabilizer is above the plane of the blade edge. This is not an uncommon problem and easily taken care of with a low rpm dremel stone. Pics please.
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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Put some ink on the shoulders and put it on a hone. As said a Dremel and sanding drum or a EZ lap Diamond Hone stick will lower it to where it is not making contact.

    Go slow you probably do not have to remove much steel.

    These are great for all kinds of steel removal where you want to remove metal slowly and carefully.

    Here

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    Member jamesrupertball's Avatar
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    Thanks all. I think my problem is that I've been honing too far towards the shank. Sometimes with only the shank off the hone.

    Do some people hone that far in? If that's the case, I can imagine the need to take some metal off the stabilizer as was suggested. A simpler fix would be just to make sure you stop before getting to the shoulder which I'll try to do.

    I better get back to the videos Thanks for all the replies. I appreciate your time and advice!
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    Quote Originally Posted by jamesrupertball View Post
    Thanks all. I think my problem is that I've been honing too far towards the shank. Sometimes with only the shank off the hone.

    Do some people hone that far in? If that's the case, I can imagine the need to take some metal off the stabilizer as was suggested. A simpler fix would be just to make sure you stop before getting to the shoulder which I'll try to do.

    I better get back to the videos Thanks for all the replies. I appreciate your time and advice!
    That being said, a few more photos and a question

    Should I stop honing at the position in photo 1? Or is photo 2 ok? When I look in the beginners honing section on SRP, the graphic shows most of the spine on the hone, with only the shank off it. In this instance, one would be honing the stabiliser and shoulder too. Is that ok?

    Photo 3 and 4 try to show close ups of the shoulder. In photo 4 you may be able to see some hone wear from when I have had the full blade on the hone.

    Thanks everyone!Name:  photo 1.jpg
Views: 324
Size:  66.4 KBName:  photo 2.jpg
Views: 351
Size:  67.3 KBName:  photo 3.jpg
Views: 324
Size:  33.0 KBName:  photo 4.jpg
Views: 337
Size:  32.6 KB

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    Senior Member blabbermouth Hirlau's Avatar
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    Never drink & hone,,,,
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