Thread: Jnat finishing

Originally Posted by aa1192

I was using my 1k DMT credit card, but it seems to be bleeding diamonds. I guess either it is too fine for the job or maybe I got a dud, but even on my coti it releases grit into the slurry. I can always go back to my DMT 325 but that seems overly aggressive and a pain to slurry with.

Yes. Fine DMT's do not survive lapping so you probably got a few more miles using it only as a slurry stone.
DMT recommends nothing finer than their DMT C or 325 as some call it.
The only reason one can get away with an Atoma 1200 is that the diamond coat is on a pimpled surface which does not lock onto the stone destrying the nickel matrix. DMT's being a continuous coat are more susceptible to damage.
http://straightrazorpalace.com/advan...w-problem.html

Originally Posted by bill3152

Thanks for the comment. Well Im not a scientist but Ive used many different materials to do some scratch tests. I used glass at first but realizing that glass is as hard or harder than most stone even though alot of whats in a Jnat is silicate. Anyway, I used a piece of plexiglass, ran a dmt on it , then I took a tomo nagura rounded corner as I use and ran it on the plexi. Big difference in scratch patterns in the 2 samples. Now what are scratches? These are marks made by an abrasive. Ive tried this on the side of a coke bottle, same thing and a scrap of marble as well. I used the material being scratched held vertical so as not to say the plate is heavier than the tomo. Many tomo naguras are at the same level particle wise as finishing stones, which is probably 6-10k maximum. I think the rapid breaking of slurry is occuring with dia plate slurry as a result of the abrasiveness of the larger particles on each other. A dmt or atoma is made to cut into steel or stone, thus the teeth and orientation of these diamonds, stones while they can break off large particles if your not careful, IMO release smaller particles. Again Im not a scientist but I feel these observations make sense to me. I welcome any other comments or experiments any others have done. If what Im saying doesnt make sense, thats ok. It just makes sense to me.

How much slurry you make & how hard you press & how worn your diamond plate is will all make a difference to your honing results. What I call a final slurry most would call clear water. I know Jimbo has a similar Asagi to me & works his the same. I'm also sure I've posted enough of my cosmetically polished edges using Atoma "slurry" that are not scratched or chipped. The particle size theory may well be a moot point if the tools are handled correctly.

I also finish with very thin slurry tinged water, using a well-worn Atoma 1200. Take a look at the image and you can see how worn it is. It won't scratch the hone no matter how hard you press, and it doesn't generate slurry fast. I'm in the process of curating a couple more to take its place as it's approaching the end of its useful life. I think Alex Gilmore is the only one with one worn more than this one.

If your plate isn't well worn, the slurry initially doesn't feel as smooth but like Onimaru55 I can tell little if any difference in the final result. With my worn plate, I can tell no difference. That's not to say that some natural naguras won't produce a better result, but it won't be because of the slurry "size", and ones that would beat this plate are uncommon.

Cheers, Steve

Originally Posted by onimaru55

How much slurry you make & how hard you press & how worn your diamond plate is will all make a difference to your honing results. What I call a final slurry most would call clear water. I know Jimbo has a similar Asagi to me & works his the same. I'm also sure I've posted enough of my cosmetically polished edges using Atoma "slurry" that are not scratched or chipped. The particle size theory may well be a moot point if the tools are handled correctly.