Thread: Troublesome TI that wont take a hone more than 8-10k

sharptonn, I considered that possibility after my first attempt and tried a pyramid. I think the edge was a little better off the 8k with a pyramid, but had similar results when I jumped to the 12k after only 15 strokes or so. I considered dulling the blade, but I was concerned about re-setting a bevel without a 1k. Doable on a 4k or will I be there for a while?

A few strokes on the side of a smooth bottle should get you to the 4k, IF it is as suspected. Tighten up the pyramid and do less. Shave off the 8k good before going forward. Then, 20 strokes on the 12k, strop and see?

So what does the edge look like with magnification?

Are you are hitting the whole edge?

Is the edge chipping or just not cutting hair?

If chipping, two layers of tape may help, ink the bevel to make sure you are getting to the edge. Lightly joint the edge on the corner of the stone, one or two strokes, until you do not feel the chips and reset the bevel on the 4K.

Finish with light laps on the 8K, strop and shave test.

Seen this plenty of times for all the reasons listed above, foil edges, large grain steel breaking off, and so on. Tape helped some keeping down at 8k worked well for others. Every razor is different and as you go along you will find what THAT razor likes. Your skills will only get better as you try out new ideas

My first 2 years of shaving with a straight was off a Norton 4/8k stone, worked just fine (and far more affordable...)

I have honed thousands and thousands of the newer TI's and they all have turned out to be very nice shavers. That said, most have been a complete pain in the you know what to hone. If you look at many of the new ones you will see heels that are broken and then repaired and sold that way, uneven flattening of the spine that most time does not match on both sides, wider bevels on the front side indicating burr removal probably on the final grinding and in many cases a double bevel already existing. The biggest problem in honing these razors is in getting the bevel set properly and although many people may think they have the bevel set, I am betting not. Whether you use tape or not, and keep in mind that the tape will only help you save further wear on the spine, these razors simply take considerable time to get the bevel right. It can be hard to get the double bevel out, you may be creating a double bevel after you think you have one out, but you really need to make sure your test for the bevel is fool proof or you make sure under the microscope that your scratch marks extend all the way down the bevel to the edge uniformly. I have spent hours on some of these just setting the bevel and walked away from a few until the next day. But, in every case, once the bevel was set properly, I could proceed and I am using mostly Naniwa's presently, going to the 5K, 8K, 12K and then Suehiro 20K ending up with a fine shaver.

As an alternative and again taping is your decision, the Rolling X can be used from bevel setting to finish and you should end up with a nice shaver.

I am seeing some improvement from TI in the past year and hopefully it will continue, but based on their final grinding, they will remain a little harder to hone in my opinion.

Have fun.

For anyone reading this, I would, if I were going to spend the considerable money a TI costs, look on ebay for NOS razors from the 20s through the 60s or 70s before buying a new TI.

The NOS razors might not be any cheaper than a new TI, but I have had much better luck with the quality of the high end razors from 50 to 100 years ago than I have with a couple dozen more recently made razors.

I don't know if the piece rate requirements don't allow the cutlers as much time to do final straightening of the spines, or make them hurry when grinding, but it's annoying!!

The TIs I get in for honing(modern) almost always have a double bevel or wavy bevel. I straighten them out with a 4k(6 micron) dmt. For whatever reason seems that the dmt cuts faster than a chosera 1k. I dont know why. Anyway it always takes a long time to get the bevel set. After the dmt, I start from the 1k chosera and up. If synth edge, like this never seen trouble going to a 20k suehiro, but the bevel as was said is the battle here always IMO.

A word of caution for novice honers, using diamond plates for bevel setting, while they can get bevels flat… quicker, they also can lead to chipping down the road, when heavy pressure and course plates are used.

I have had some success with new TI's and other hard steel, getting the bevels flat with diamond plates but not meeting, not completely set, then complete the bevel set with a 1k to avoid chipping in the finish hones.

If they do chip, remove chipping with light jointing on the corner of the stone and re-set the bevel until the edge will hold.

Originally Posted by bill3152

The TIs I get in for honing(modern) almost always have a double bevel or wavy bevel. I straighten them out with a 4k(6 micron) dmt. For whatever reason seems that the dmt cuts faster than a chosera 1k. I dont know why. Anyway it always takes a long time to get the bevel set. After the dmt, I start from the 1k chosera and up. If synth edge, like this never seen trouble going to a 20k suehiro, but the bevel as was said is the battle here always IMO.

Originally Posted by Euclid440

A word of caution for novice honers, using diamond plates for bevel setting, while they can get bevels flat… quicker, they also can lead to chipping down the road, when heavy pressure and course plates are used.

I have had some success with new TI's and other hard steel, getting the bevels flat with diamond plates but not meeting, not completely set, then complete the bevel set with a 1k to avoid chipping in the finish hones.

If they do chip, remove chipping with light jointing on the corner of the stone and re-set the bevel until the edge will hold.

Another trick:

I consider a Plate for a Pre-bevel and use them for drastic repair, correction etc: but if you add an extra layer of tape or two when using them you will confine the deep scratches they impart to the very end of the bevel, Once corrected, you drop the extra tape, kill the edge lightly and re-set a normal bevel, this will take out the deep scratches and leave you with a clean strong bevel again, with minimal effort... Saves me a ton of time
Hone On !!!!

Did just that recently with a Richmond razor, said to be made from the steel he makes his knives from, a very hard and brittle steel.
I experienced a lot of chipping, as did a couple of others in a recent post. Jointed and re-honed a couple of time with no success.

Then I went to 3 layers of tape, jointed and dropped to two tape layers and finished the bevel set on the Chosera. The edge held well and is a nice shaver with a wide blade that sells for 25 -30 dollars, I forget.

The blade otherwise is well ground, nice, straight and wide, It will make a nice blade for customization or entry level razor. Getting an edge on it could give you fits, though. The edge is holding well and should, as hard as it is. They do need some new scales badly. It’s on the bench and in line.

This tip does work well for hard chippy steel and Diamond plates.