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Just a thought...I've ran into razors that just didn't seem to take well to the C12K. Not that it has anything to do with the crumbling edge. I'm not even sure why I would want to go to a 20k edge, of course I thought that to when I was shaving only off an 8k edge...
No expert here but I would take a good look at the stone you have. Ive had a few Jnats that were chippy until I lapped past some roughness. After a good lap and smoothing out, they were fine. A slow cutter like that I wouldnt think would create issues.Quote:
Originally Posted by Trimmy72
I'm not sure that it would make sense that some razors take to it and others not, if that were the case. Certainly worth a look none the less and thanks for the suggestion, I'll probably look at it this week and give it another good lapping. I would like to use it, instead of it just sitting in storage.Quote:
Originally Posted by bill3152
I have a couple of new TIs from TI UK, the Basic Blacks, and my experience agrees with Lynn and Bill's comments. The last one was a 7/8" and needed a lot of time on the hones to eliminate a double bevel. The bevel on the 7/8 is wide and not even, but in the end it shaves very, very well. Both the 11/16 and 7/8 are among my favorite razors. The 11/16 is ground better, but I have only 2 samples to compare.
Cheers, Steve
Thanks all for the recommendations and expert support. After the first time I honed the razor I started to see the wavy bevel and noted that I was pushing uneven water lines, which I believe are indicators of warp. From there I started using the rolling x and heel first strokes in an attempt to compensate, which worked great and shaved well...until i got to the 12k.
This weekend, I'll probably spend a little more time on the 4k to re-set the bevel (if I can) since that sounds like it may be my issue. Unfortunately, I don't have magnification to do a visual check. I'll also try marking the edge to ensure contact. I already tape the blade, with an extra layer after a few passes on the 12k...so go to three layers on the finish? If all else fails, maybe this is one that I just send off for professional correction.
I'm pretty sure this may be my first and last TI based on some of the comments above and what I've read on other forums. This was my second blade and I really didn't know what to look for in a "good" blade. The significant amount factory spine wear on the first TI and the replacement (which my Dovo doesn't have at all) should have been my indicator of problems to come.
The largest part of honing is problem solving, and first is identifying the problem. So narrow the variables, figure out if it is the razor, the stone or the honer, or a combination.
Eliminate one variable at a time. Tape the spine with 2 layer of tape to replicate the angle that you know works, ink and set the bevel on the 4k. Ink will tell you if you are reaching the edge, magnification will tell if and when the bevel is set.
Make sure the bevel is set. The easiest way is to look straight down on the edge with magnification, looking for shiny spots on the edge where the bevels are not meeting, hone until no shinny spots are visable and the edge is straight, no chips.
Few razors are flat or without defects, use a Rolling X stroke to hone the whole edge. Finish on the 8K, strop and test shave. If you get a comfortable shave off the 8k, and you should be able to, then you know the problem is your Natural Chinese stone. Not all are finishers, lapping and finishing the stone may correct it, which is why learning to hone on synthetics is highly recommended.
Once you get the razor dialed in, keeping it shaving is much easier to maintain with stropping and finish stone.
Doing the same thing and expecting a different result… Never works.
All that you are experiencing is normal and will continue until you can maintain your razors with a strop.
Find a local mentor to cut your learning curve.