Thread: Razor passes HHT before shave but not after.

Your bevel is not set.

How do you know when the bevel is set?

Hair test are not reliable, because they cannot test the whole edge, they can be an indicator, but if it is not shaving, it’s not set.

You can buy a lighted 30X loupe for 2-3 dollars and remove all doubt.

Originally Posted by gadavier

If the edge seems to be breaking down after one pass, the razor may be a candidate for a layer or two of tape. Try that and see if that solves the issue.

I'll give that a try although I've never had to use 2 layers on a hollow ground razor just on wedges, I ordered a 30x loupe so I'll wait for that to arrive and check the edge first like Euclid440 said.

If the edge is breaking down, it usually is, the bevel was not “Completely” set, too much pressure or defect in the steel caused by Cell rot, aggressive low grit honing or too thin a grind angle.

Since you have shaved with the razor, I would suspect, the edge got wiped and was not completely re-set. When you hair tested, it cut hair on a part that was set, giving a false positive test.

Most problems of sharpness are probably due to the bevel set.

Develop an absolutely positive bevel set test technique, looking at the bevel straight down on the bevel with magnification is the quickest, complete test of the whole edge.

I have wiry beard and most razors of mine don't pass the HHT after shaving, unless I accurately strop them.
After seven years I assume that you manage correctly the whole honing process. Then I can think of 2 possibilities:
If those two razors are new entries and you never used before then you have probably met two blades with some softer steel.
If those are old blades that you had already used in the past and the behavior has changed, well be aware that your beard thickness and hardness are increasing with your age and are going to decrease in your latest years after 60-70, it's a natural evolution.

And putting one more guess in the pool... If the razors are old ones, that you honed before, then sometimes that problem you describe can happen.

It's a known problem for the barbers of old.

The solution they used, was to shift hones, use another honing technique, or have another one hone the razor.

Apparently the problem was caused by a long use of the same hone or honing technique on the same edge.

If the razors are "new" old ones, then I agree with the other answers above.

i have 2 suggestions as well, I also hone using a coticule with the dulicut method, I use half strokes during a dulicut, not full X strokes

if you keep "diluting" your slurry to much you're basicly honing on water to long, which can result in a foil edge, resulting into the issues you've discribed

if the affliction turns out to be contagious and starts spreading to other razors in your collection it could be caused by some coticule garnet rolling around on your 'plain leather strop'

Well this's what I found with the loupe, I'm not sure if their chips or scratches though. Anybody know? Is this just a portion of the blade where the bevel was not achieved? Do I need to hone more into the razor to remove this? Thanks for all the advice everyone so far.

You are not honing to the edge.

Ink the bevel and use a rolling X stroke.

why does nobody ever talk about bevels getting unset or that maybe a razor needs freshening up. You people act as if the bevel is literally set in stone.

Originally Posted by gfro

why does nobody ever talk about bevels getting unset or that maybe a razor needs freshening up. You people act as if the bevel is literally set in stone.

The problem with the razor above is that the bevel has not been set in stone.