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Thread: Suehiro Gokomyu 20K Waterstone

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    Default Suehiro Gokomyu 20K Waterstone

    After using this somewhat amazing stone for a few weeks, allows me to offer an opinion I can only say that this stone works, 'every' time.No worries going from 8/10k to this 20k stone. "price is an issue' . True but if you can imagine your best bevel set and then polishing it with this luxurious stone, I swear it's a magic shave..I'ts a $300 stone. It should be, thats it. Many will go the natural ROUTE and use the various JNATS. I'm not suggesting there is no role for nats, I'm simply telling you guys that your best finishers, haven't got a chance against the Suehiro Gokumyo 20k. I am amazed seriously. This hone is half the price of a shapton equivalent.I mean how many of us have a thousand bucks for a 5mm shapton glass hones set. I'll stay happy with the Suehiro Gok 20k. Gents, feel free to rebutt my views, I just look to advance the techniques.
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    I read nothing but great reviews from the Suehiro Gokumyo 20k. There's roughly a 125.00 price difference between the Suehiro Gokumyo 20K and the Shapton 30K.

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    FrankC
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    bobski:
    Thanks for the review, can you elaborate on the way you are using this stone? Obviously as a finisher but what is your progression pre- finisher? What stones are you using? Any particular techniques work better than others?
    Did you find that taking the edge past 8k made a difference in the final edge?
    I have been using this stone also with a Naniwa Professional P310 1k, then a Norton 4k-8k, then G20. I am switching the Nortons for the new Choseras, getting the 3k and 5k and am wondering if an 8k to 10k would make a difference in the end or not.
    I also find that this stone is very easy to have success with and for my face the best synth finisher that I have shaved off of so far.

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    illegitimum non carborundum Utopian's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FranfC View Post
    bobski:
    Thanks for the review, can you elaborate on the way you are using this stone? Obviously as a finisher but what is your progression pre- finisher? What stones are you using? Any particular techniques work better than others?
    Did you find that taking the edge past 8k made a difference in the final edge?
    I have been using this stone also with a Naniwa Professional P310 1k, then a Norton 4k-8k, then G20. I am switching the Nortons for the new Choseras, getting the 3k and 5k and am wondering if an 8k to 10k would make a difference in the end or not.
    I also find that this stone is very easy to have success with and for my face the best synth finisher that I have shaved off of so far.
    The Nortons actually are excellent hones and you will gain little going to the Choseras. If you do want to make the switch, I would recommend the 3k and 8k, rather than 3k and 5k.

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    The Hurdy Gurdy Man thebigspendur's Avatar
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    The Suehiro is truly a great finisher. I have the Shapton 30K glass and it's been mothballed. It's the one stone that never really worked for me. I usually wind up with a harsh edge with it. The Suehiro is easy to use, fast, and puts an outstandingly keen and comfortable edge on my razors. It even bests my blue-green Escher.
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    Quote Originally Posted by thebigspendur View Post
    The Suehiro is truly a great finisher. I have the Shapton 30K glass and it's been mothballed. It's the one stone that never really worked for me. I usually wind up with a harsh edge with it. The Suehiro is easy to use, fast, and puts an outstandingly keen and comfortable edge on my razors. It even bests my blue-green Escher.
    Do you go from the Suehiro 20K directly to the strop or is is there a post hone step? (CrOx etc.) Thanks
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    Senior Member UKRob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Utopian View Post
    The Nortons actually are excellent hones and you will gain little going to the Choseras. If you do want to make the switch, I would recommend the 3k and 8k, rather than 3k and 5k.
    Have to disagree here - my go to stone was the Norton combination 4k/8k from the start of my honing experience. I recently changed it for the Naniwa 3k and 5k - I selected those because I already had a 10k, so now my 1, 3, 5 and 10k are all Naniwa and I go straight to the 20k gokumyu with excellent results.

    I changed from the Norton just because of wear but have to say I much prefer the professional Naniwas (replacement for Chosiros) they are a considerable step up in price from Norton but much better in performance.
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    The Hurdy Gurdy Man thebigspendur's Avatar
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    I usually catch my razors as they are just beginning to deteriorate so it takes a final polisher like the Suehiro and that's it. I have a few razors with very hard metal that do better with CrO instead of the Suehiro however they are few and far between.
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    As much lauded as it is, it's still a finishing stone. Fact is that the 1k work, for your bevel is the key, without that, forget it, from then on I use a 4k Naniwa deluxe Lobster brand, then a 6k King, remember all we are doing here is removing the stria from what the last stone left you with. My 8k is a Kingstone clay based stone 210 x 75 x 25. (Large) Then a virtual feather like 10 strokes on my Icebear (Clay based) 10 K. So, on a set bevel, then through the polishing stones, the Gok 20 seriously is 7 strokes, light pressure. Really guys it should be close. If it's no good, then your bevel was never right. Sure it can be corrected on a 4k or even an 8k, but the whole forum will tell you 1.Bevel, then the rest.

    Now, if you have 3 or 4 razors, that are a little less than perfect. All you need is a touch up, no 1k's, you already have a bevel. Just 5 to 7 strokes on the GOK 20, and following linen/leather stropping it should be fine. The full array of stones are only needed when you buy a totally dull razor, or you breadknife it, but as most on our forum will say, it is a stone that requires very few strokes, it is your ultimate polisher, simple as that really. On the downunder forum onimaru55 said it right when he answered a question put as to the number of strokes for the GOK 20k, he said, 'It'll take a couple of minutes unless you are doing 200 razors. That say's it all, less is more once you have a correct bevel set. There are many tests of sharpness. I just thumbpad it, and after a while, you will know straight away if it's OK . That is why your 1st razor MUST be honed for you by someone who can hone, such as Oz (Onimaru55) if ur in Australia. Reason simply being that you have a reference as to what sharp is. Then you have something to compare your efforts at honing, if that is your choice. Be aware though, for that new razor you bought, and had honed, the only stone you need fellas for the first 6 months is an 8 or 10k touch up stone. You won't or shouldn't need anything but a strop, and maybe the touch up stone when the strop gives up. It is every one's choice if they wish to buy stones and a couple of cheaper razors to hone up yourself. My advice as someone who over two years, learnt to hone, learn to shave 1st (3 months min) Then look at our forum, consider the opinions of more serious people and hasten slowly. It's very rewarding to hone one urself, but there are many days, when you want to chuck the lot in the bin.....If you jump in hard, your partner will be less than thrilled when the statement comes in. Have a great time either way

    Cheers Bobski
    Last edited by bobski; 12-01-2014 at 03:53 AM.

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    It's on my want list. One day.....
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