Thread: Coti method question

Originally Posted by hatzicho

You don't need to go that high in progression bevore you get on the coti. The main thing about a coti is that it provides a very widde range of honing capabilities.
I always step to the coti after bevel setting on a 1K synthetic and use the 1 K only to have a defined starting point. Starting with a thick slurry on the coti and some pressure, than diluting more and more and reducing honing pressure until finally only using water, just like the dilicut method developped by Bart Torfs. You can also set the bevel on the coti, but that takes a bit more time and the point is, you always need to know exactly where you are in the progression to handle the dilution steps correctly.
But there is in my opinion really no reason to add a 4K or 8K step in between. You can easily remove the scratches that the 1K leaves with a thick coti slurry.
Under "normal" conditions with a good and fast coti an experienced honer should only need about 15-20 minutes to get a razor shave ready from a 1K with the coti.

+1 to this post Key terms "normal, and experienced."
When I was real green or new it took much longer. And using just a coti after a bevel setter I never saw scratches because they are not there, the polishing of the garnets remove materiel and polish simultaneously, Think of using 3D Stop signs for a grit material.
When you start with a thick milky slurry you are at apprx. 4K. So you bevel set at 1K then jump to 4K milky dilution with 'EXPERIENCE" takes you to 8-10K ,When I louped all the time I never had a scratch pattern, thought I failed, not so, had 20 razors that where all done without the final step of tape and water. Good acceptable shaves but nothing to brag or speak about. After Geezer pointed out that link and I read it 3 times and followed it to the letter, Presto I found the step I was missing. coti by themselves tend to polish over the blade tip rounding effect. layer of tape solves this geometric shaping. Then if you watch Glens honing vids, he states you dont need to adhere strict to unicot or dulicot. I did this found that circles and Glens style work, you still have to address the rounded coti edge final stage to coax out the legend. JMHO.
But I struggled mightily and refused to give up on my coti. Just had to figure out how to unlock it. This thread does not address pressure with slurry through dilution but you got this.

Originally Posted by JimmyHAD

Take notes on what you honed it with, how it shaved after each session. Try it with water only, light slurry and then dilute to water only. Keep track of and note the amount of strokes. I've done this a few times in the past, and wish I had been consistent in doing it with all of my razors.

this is a good point also ... once i figured out how to get my razor(s) where i wanted them to be on the synthetics i went back to the other 30 or so that needed touch ups or a little more and started from bevel set to finish and kept a book with every razor and comments below it as to what stones , layers of tape , type of strokes , number of strokes , and how many on each stone ... i didnt do it as much with the coti but am starting to do it again ..

What I have found to work .. I usually set my bevel on my chosera 1k then I follow the unicot system.. I was getting those great cotis edges. Now I started playing with the dilucot method and not using tape.. And believe it or not the unicot is easier and I'm getting better edges that way.. I have even used my Coti to set bevels and do a one stone hone.. But the results IMO are better when I bevel set with a synthetic.. I'm gonna try the dilucot with a 1k chosera and see..

For the last year, I've used my coti for everything from bevel to finishing... using the unicot method on www.coticule.be. I've had amazing shaves using that method. As to some background, I've maintained my blades that were previously shave ready when I bought them, as well as bringing antique store finds into use once again... and some of these had edges in really rough shape.

A coti seems to be able to do it all, however, the drawback is that with those antique store finds, it took a LONG time to get that initial bevel. Within the last two weeks, I broke down and bought a Norton 220/1000 to speed up the process for the worn razors I may come across.

I'm sure the type of coti also makes a difference as some are faster than others. I really don't know what type mine is, but by reading descriptions and seeing pics, I believe it to be a La Grise.

Forgot to mention... I am having a lot of trouble with my first "smiling" blade (an antique store Wade & Butcher)... I just can't seem to get that bevel set!

Coti's are great! If I could only own one stone it would be a coti because they are so versitile. The heavier the slurry the more cutting power, and in clear water it's a great finisher too. Here is what works for me: Take the razor thru 1k-8k progression. As soon as the razor starts grabbing arm hair move to the coti on a very light slurry. The slurry should be just a bit cloudy. Make about 25X pattern stroke and clean the coti and repeat this step. Then, move to clear water with little to no pressure 25X patern strokes and clean the coti repeat this step. Test the razor. I can get the razor to pass a HHT using this progeression.
Biggreg