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Thread: Norton 4k after Chosera 1K ?
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12-25-2014, 12:05 AM #11
respectfully, I might add, you might be taking off metal without need. The Chosera 1K should do just fine. Unless the blade needs serious work like chip removal, geometry correction, etc., I don't think it is necessary to drop down below the Chosera 1K.
Correct me if I'm wrong, someone, but that's what I've learned.
Cheers all!
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Rotavator (12-25-2014)
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12-25-2014, 12:18 AM #12
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Rotavator (12-25-2014)
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12-25-2014, 06:57 AM #13
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Rotavator (12-25-2014)
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12-25-2014, 07:43 AM #14
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Thanked: 2Thank to you all, ill try out today. I wanted to drop to 600 just to be sure because the blade had no edge at all because i sanded it .
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12-25-2014, 01:35 PM #15
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Thanked: 1184If it were me I would romance that bevel to set on the new stone. Just to get used to the feel. What's the rush ? Just saying :<0)
Good judgment comes from experience, and experience....well that comes from poor judgment.
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Utopian (12-25-2014)
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12-25-2014, 03:46 PM #16
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Thanked: 25My experience with the 1k chosera and the Norton 4k is the same. The 4k seems to degrade the edge.
Santa brought me a Naniwa 5k Super Stone this morning which will replace the Norton in the progression.
Now I need a dull razor to test this out with.
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Rotavator (12-25-2014)
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12-25-2014, 05:40 PM #17
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Thanked: 3215Do not use the 600, especially a Diamond plate. Aggressive Diamond plate and or pressure can lead to chipping of the edge and you will have to remove even more steel to stop the chipping.
More laps is safer and more effective than dropping down in grits. Circles and half laps can speed up the process, finishing with X laps.
Stay on the Chosera with a bit of pressure to set the bevel. Do not move up in grits until you are absolutely sure the bevels are set. It is probably the most common error novice honers make, not completely set the bevel.
Once you are sure the bevel is set, then do 10 laps with light pressure to smooth out the 1k stria then go to the 4K.
Bottom line, hair test are unreliable until you calibrate a hair test for your hair and your razors. Untill then use a non-destructive test, like looking for edge reflections.
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12-25-2014, 08:57 PM #18
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Thanked: 2So i rehoned that razor today. I dulled the edge and reseted it totally on a Chosera 1k. Then i moved to Norton 4000 - about 40 laps. Then Norton 8000- about 50 laps and there i got a HHT positive but only slightly- i had to move my fingers with hair really close to the edge. Then i used the welsh slate sold as DT on ebay by AJ and the hairs were just popping. Really nice HHT. Then i moved to my Chinese 12 K 50 strokes w slurry and about 60 on clean water. HHT weak. Then i finished with about 100 ôaps on my Charnley forest. Edge much refined under microscope, but HHT only slightly better, nothing great. I am not saying i rely on HHT- i just wrote what happened on every stone. And by the way i am calibrating to one type of hair, so i always test on hair from same person. Photos included.Next time i may skip the Chinese 12 K and finist straight on CF and see what it does. Under the blade is white paper. Blade is the dark part of picture.
Chosera 1000
Norton 4000
Norton 8000
Welsh slate
C12K
CF
Last edited by Rotavator; 12-25-2014 at 10:11 PM.
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12-25-2014, 11:35 PM #19
What power is the microscope ? Edge looks pretty rough. Chips & burrs right up tp C12k. Seems to be improving on CF.
I only use a 20-200x Veho scope so if you are at 400 x ignore me. I find it hard to interpret pics above 200x..The white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.
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Rotavator (12-26-2014)
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12-26-2014, 08:11 AM #20
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Thanked: 2I dont know exactly, something up to 200x. I admit there may be mistakes. But after 8k without camera and also with a have seen no burrs or chips so i dont know. Just to make it clear edge is the upper line not the bottom line. The haze on edge wasnt burr, but it was not focused well, it is really hard to take photos with my microscope. I may try to take better photo, but i also have to hone my technique.