Thread: Honing my custom french point razor issue

Ok, here is the issue. I built this razor myself. All is well . I tried to Hone it and this is what I am discovering , maybe someone could point me in the right direction or tell me if my idea to correct moving forward ?
1. I used X strokes to hone this razor . I have the Norton system. 220/1000 stone and 4000/8000 stone, chromium oxide on my strop and leather strop. I found after honing that the toe of my razor down to half way down the blade is not sharp but the heel is shave ready perfect. So , what I think I need to do and correct me if I am wrong is sine the French point is so so long and the blade tapers down from spine to edge is to turn the blade while honing so that the thickest part of the spine stays in contact with the bevel and thus a consistent hone all the way down the edge ?
am I correct. All input welcome . bare in mind this image is not after honing but before . The picture is just for showing the style of razor "French point" .
I did shave my neck with it and the only part that was shave ready was the heel and up about an inch or 2 from there as I said . I cant wait to make it all shave ready , very exciting to create something for the first time and use it .

A rolling X-stroke that ends at the tip of the spine is what you want to use. If you don't know what this is I suggest you do some reading in the library section. It may be helpful for you to put some Sharpie on both the bevel and the spine where they will be contacting the stone. Your objective, should you accept it, *wink wink* is to reposition (sort of rock) the razor as you hone so that it makes contact all the way across the spine and bevel from heel to toe on every stroke.

thank you so much for this . I will look into it thoroughly. what I am seeing now on my straight razor is that the heel has a very fine almost not noticeable bevel. but the toe , the bevel is much larger in comparison . So, hopefully with research and honing it properly I can get an even shave ready edge.

Since you built it yourself you are going to need to even it all up

Just like a restoration,,, coming off of wheels leaves a pretty uneven edge,, both in height and thickness..

You will need to set the bevel, kill the bevel, and re-set it a few times to get the cutting edge all even once it is even then you hone through for your shaving edge..


I have threads on here about dealing with these issues, I will try and find them for you


Read this one, it is about grind thickness issues

http://straightrazorpalace.com/honin...-set-pics.html


Another to take a look at that should help you

http://straightrazorpalace.com/honin...-you-leap.html

I appreciate your help. The blade is almost an 8/8. Maybe slightly larger so that makes sense what your saying that if toe to spine is 8/8 and heel to spine more,then the bevil will be uneven. That as well as honing it correctly. Ex. Rolling x stroke as sugested. Make sense?

Yes the rolling X and the Heel forward sweeping X are going to be your friends, But you are still going to have to go through the Bevel set, dulling and Bevel set routine to get it all evened up.. Pics of the bevel as it stands would help

Originally Posted by drmccubx

I appreciate your help. The blade is almost an 8/8. Maybe slightly larger so that makes sense what your saying that if toe to spine is 8/8 and heel to spine more,then the bevil will be uneven. That as well as honing it correctly. Ex. Rolling x stroke as sugested. Make sense?

I'm not really following the above post, but I am interested in the topic.

I've never honed a French Point, but I have made several razors. It always appeared to me that cutting the spine short as in a French point was a bad idea from a honing ease and grinding ease perspective, since the spine is the guide for honing and grinding. If I were to make one, I think I would shorten the spine as late in the process as possible so that I would have the guide for most of the grinding. Since your edge and spine are straight you should be able to establish a bevel on flat hones and then use the bevel reveal to straighten out your grind if necessary.

cant say I know what a "bevel reveal is" ? But I understand the rest . it seems simple enough to always keep the thickest point of the spine on the hone. And to do that , make a sweeping x stroke . so we will see. I like all the input though . thanks for it

Originally Posted by drmccubx

cant say I know what a "bevel reveal is" ?

The reveal is the part that your seeing as uneven.

If the spine is straight and even and the edge is parallel to it. The uneven bevel area would show that there is an uneven grind on the hollows, hence my use of the term "reveal" .

Nice looking razor by the way.

I agree with Glen on the overthinking part. I would not grind off the bevel you have. You are most of the way to where you need to be now.

If it were me. I would tape the edge that you have now, hold it flat on a flat hone and see if the spine is contacting the hone evenly using a marker on the spine. If you have even contact on both sides of the spine then you know that the spine is parallel to your existing edge.