Thread: Honing my custom french point razor issue

Ok, here is the issue. I built this razor myself. All is well . I tried to Hone it and this is what I am discovering , maybe someone could point me in the right direction or tell me if my idea to correct moving forward ?
1. I used X strokes to hone this razor . I have the Norton system. 220/1000 stone and 4000/8000 stone, chromium oxide on my strop and leather strop. I found after honing that the toe of my razor down to half way down the blade is not sharp but the heel is shave ready perfect. So , what I think I need to do and correct me if I am wrong is sine the French point is so so long and the blade tapers down from spine to edge is to turn the blade while honing so that the thickest part of the spine stays in contact with the bevel and thus a consistent hone all the way down the edge ?
am I correct. All input welcome . bare in mind this image is not after honing but before . The picture is just for showing the style of razor "French point" .
I did shave my neck with it and the only part that was shave ready was the heel and up about an inch or 2 from there as I said . I cant wait to make it all shave ready , very exciting to create something for the first time and use it .

A rolling X-stroke that ends at the tip of the spine is what you want to use. If you don't know what this is I suggest you do some reading in the library section. It may be helpful for you to put some Sharpie on both the bevel and the spine where they will be contacting the stone. Your objective, should you accept it, *wink wink* is to reposition (sort of rock) the razor as you hone so that it makes contact all the way across the spine and bevel from heel to toe on every stroke.

thank you so much for this . I will look into it thoroughly. what I am seeing now on my straight razor is that the heel has a very fine almost not noticeable bevel. but the toe , the bevel is much larger in comparison . So, hopefully with research and honing it properly I can get an even shave ready edge.

Since you built it yourself you are going to need to even it all up

Just like a restoration,,, coming off of wheels leaves a pretty uneven edge,, both in height and thickness..

You will need to set the bevel, kill the bevel, and re-set it a few times to get the cutting edge all even once it is even then you hone through for your shaving edge..


I have threads on here about dealing with these issues, I will try and find them for you


Read this one, it is about grind thickness issues

http://straightrazorpalace.com/honin...-set-pics.html


Another to take a look at that should help you

http://straightrazorpalace.com/honin...-you-leap.html

I appreciate your help. The blade is almost an 8/8. Maybe slightly larger so that makes sense what your saying that if toe to spine is 8/8 and heel to spine more,then the bevil will be uneven. That as well as honing it correctly. Ex. Rolling x stroke as sugested. Make sense?

Yes the rolling X and the Heel forward sweeping X are going to be your friends, But you are still going to have to go through the Bevel set, dulling and Bevel set routine to get it all evened up.. Pics of the bevel as it stands would help

Here are a few pics

3rd pictures shows the uneven bevel

Yes you are going to have to put in the time getting that evened up,,, How close to perfect the bevel is going to be will depend on how straight your grind is..

Keep in mind that all razors are not perfect, people would like them to be, but honestly many have slight warpage and grind imperfections that keep the bevels from being these perfect even lines

Even up the bevel as best as you can, then move on and get her shave ready

so the steps I can see are this . Now that I am at the computer I can type more. phone text is slow.
1. grind off the bevel completely . Maybe just run it along sand paper till its gone and everything is even . which may make the blade 8/8 perfect from heel to toe thus making it easier to hone ? then , any additional measurements I need to make . I do have a micrometer . I suppose I could measure spine width from one end to the other , making sure it is the same all the way down the spine. it should be 1/4 inch as that is what I started with for steel , but it may be slightly less . thus, a flat surface to make honing more accurate along the edge ? then measure from spine to blade all the way down with my micrometer as well to see that it is in fact 8/8 all the way down the blade ? All of which will ensure an even bevel . Then and only then start a new bevel with correct rolling x and sweeping x strokes ?
sound like a plan ? I am new to this so I am sure there have been countless posts on this through the years. So cool there is a place to find out all this info . very grateful .