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Thread: Experimenting with Finishing Methods?

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    Senior Member rlmnshvstr8's Avatar
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    I would say that the only sure fire way of doing such is to take the razor back to bevel set. As long as your bevel setting is consistent and there are no extra variables you are performing during the bevel set during each finishing experiment. For example if you were using a chosera 1k to do a bevel set using the nortons to finish, I would continue to use the chosera even if you were finishing on a coticle.

    I'm using the coticle as an example because it is the most common to use for the one hone honing method

    That is what I would do to take out as many variables as possible
    A fool flaunts what wisdom he thinks he has, while a wise man will show that he is wise silently.

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    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DocMartin0321 View Post
    -1K Ceramic Stone for bevel setting using the burr method


    and noticed my shave was a bit harsh. While I could live with it for sure, I am curious if any of my other available methods would smooth it out a bit in comparison.
    These two things go hand in hand besides anything else you do

    Let me try and explain

    Pick up a blade call it a "0"

    Set the bevel correctly it becomes a "1"
    Sharpen it and it is a "2"
    Polish it and you have a "3"
    Proper finishing gives you a "4"

    Create a burr and you have a "-1"

    Don't create a burr unless you are doing serious restoration, you are wasting steel and starting with a chewed up fragile edge....
    Last edited by gssixgun; 01-22-2015 at 10:16 PM.

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    Member DocMartin0321's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoelLewicki View Post
    I believe that is when you hone outside. *groan*
    Haha, no such thing as the Brrrrrr method down here in Tampa. I actually interviewed at VCU for residency, but it was 19 degrees with snow on the ground when I went. That was enough for me to drop it to the bottom of the list, even though it was an amazing program. We FL boys don't do cold too well.
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    Senior Member blabbermouth bluesman7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DocMartin0321 View Post
    I guess another way of asking is:
    Say I have a nice sharp edge using a set of Naniwas all the way up to 12K, but I just want to see what the edge would feel like on the face if it was finished on a Jnat. Would the edge need to be altered in any way prior to using the Jnat in order to be confident that the difference you are feeling on your face was because of the Jnat?
    You could glass the edge just enough so that it would not shave arm hair and then re hone from there.

    I used the burr method for setting bevels when I started. Now I would worry about that method causing chips when the burr is removed

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    Quote Originally Posted by rlmnshvstr8 View Post
    I would say that the only sure fire way of doing such is to take the razor back to bevel set. As long as your bevel setting is consistent and there are no extra variables you are performing during the bevel set during each finishing experiment. For example if you were using a chosera 1k to do a bevel set using the nortons to finish, I would continue to use the chosera even if you were finishing on a coticle.

    I'm using the coticle as an example because it is the most common to use for the one hone honing method

    That is what I would do to take out as many variables as possible
    Ah, spoken like a scientist. I know you're right, but just didn't want to put in that much work. Lol
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  9. #16
    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DocMartin0321 View Post

    I guess another way of asking is:
    Say I have a nice sharp edge using a set of Naniwas all the way up to 12K, but I just want to see what the edge would feel like on the face if it was finished on a Jnat. Would the edge need to be altered in any way prior to using the Jnat in order to be confident that the difference you are feeling on your face was because of the Jnat?


    Assuming you are using Slurry on the J-nat..... No

  10. #17
    Member DocMartin0321's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gssixgun View Post
    These two things go hand in hand besides anything else you do

    Let me try and explain

    Pick up a blade call it a "0"

    Set the bevel correctly it becomes a "1"
    Sharpen it and it is a "2"
    Polish it and you have a "3"
    Proper finishing gives you a "4"

    Create a burr and you have a "-1"

    Don't create a burr unless you are doing serious restoration, you are wasting steel and starting with a chewed up fragile edge....
    I only resorted to that method after trying unsuccessfully to achieve a suitably sharp edge using the method demonstrated by Lynn on YouTube. It looked pretty good with my 30x loupe afterward, but my experience is so limited that I don't really know what "good" is. I will probably glass the edge per bluesman's suggestion, and revisit the circle method now that I feel a bit more comfortable with the whole process.
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    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DocMartin0321 View Post
    I will probably glass the edge per bluesman's suggestion, and revisit the circle method now that I feel a bit more comfortable with the whole process.
    I would say that is a great idea

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    Senior Member rlmnshvstr8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DocMartin0321 View Post
    I only resorted to that method after trying unsuccessfully to achieve a suitably sharp edge using the method demonstrated by Lynn on YouTube. It looked pretty good with my 30x loupe afterward, but my experience is so limited that I don't really know what "good" is. I will probably glass the edge per bluesman's suggestion, and revisit the circle method now that I feel a bit more comfortable with the whole process.
    Ahhh, having trouble with Lynn's method, resulted going to more drastic methods in order to see result. I really don't mean to if it sounds Patronizing.

    I would say like you mentioned go back and work on those methods prescribed by Lynn. They do work it just takes patience and practice. In the bevel set there can be many factors that come into play if you are not seeing results. For example, not using enough pressure or too much pressure. Or slurry or no slurry. All these can effect results. But the key is time. I've heard of some honers taking a solid hour to get the bevel set. But taking that time makes it all worth it in the end.
    A fool flaunts what wisdom he thinks he has, while a wise man will show that he is wise silently.

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    Member DocMartin0321's Avatar
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    So it seems that the culprit may be the bevel. I will redo it tonight and see how it goes. This razor was purchased with honing practice in mind after all.

    I really appreciate all of the help everyone!
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