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Thread: The bevel and what I now know (or think I do) about it.

  1. #11
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Default To say its true would be understatement

    SS, Thank You for posting.

    For at least a year, I thought I had the idea down, only to find there was more to it. Glen said so, I thought I got it. I was full of fertilizer.

    At 480 blades (mostly still a beginner), I'm trying to stay really basic - almost foolish sounding about it. It seems I learn more from the bevel set than almost any other part of honing. I'm getting more aggressive about it. If there's a high spot, I'll let a finger from the non-stroking hand rest on the high spot while stroking. This (and most of what I know) will sound familiar to those that pay attention to the old bulls. Its not something to get prematurely proud about. It seems to be putting me face to face with how few blades are symmetric. The ones that no amount of fussing with will produce a great shave are the wavy ones. Pastes & sprays simply mask the blades defects. The rest are certainly my own defects.

    FWIW, nothing has helped my edges as much as staying tunnel-visioned on the bevel. Having to repeatedly re-slurry a chosera 1k that gets a bit glazed over is worth it, but makes me wonder if I should have done more on the dmt325.

    'Hope others can learn this alot faster than I did.
    MikekiM and FranfC like this.

  2. #12
    Tradesman s0litarys0ldier's Avatar
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    My best advice for bevel setting is be humble and focus.

  3. #13
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    Man i want to tell you that the bevell setting is the most crucial and important thing in all razor honing . If you dont set it right , on the finer grit stones some part will not go with the others and youll have to hone and insist on it .
    But before the bevell setting make sure that the spine touches down on his entire widht , f not use the DMT or 400 grit carbocorund to make it flat .
    For me the most iportant thing is the spine touches down and with it the widht of the blade from the spine to the edge . If there are diferences in this lenght in the toe q midle and heel - youll have inconsistent bevell widht . If it is a little bit its ok there is not a big diference in the sharpness . It is comonly seen a diference in bevell widht on heel or toe . Not every razor is straight /the best razors are smilyng to you /
    Some of the old restored razors are 60 % slight smile or they are weared down on the both ends heel and toe .
    I think that when check for regular spine contact and blade widht , you can sett the bevell on 1 k as you check the edge almost on every santimeter of his lenght . When it cuts hair easy on his hole lenght , you can rest already the rest is fine adguastments , but after 3 4 k when the the initial sharpness is done you only polish the blade and check it permanently .
    I do it that way , it is my levell so far , whant some beter - hone and shave after it , if doesnt like rehone it again , if like the edge - make sure you do it again on another razor .
    Good luck and stay hooned , ha ha ha .
    pj102698 likes this.

  4. #14
    Senior Member MikekiM's Avatar
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    I made the connection while painting my daughters room...

    We could pick the nicest color. Use the best brush and roller. Cut the edges just perfectly.

    However, if I had cut corners on the prep work and did a crappy job of spackling or taping... the paint finish would be less than perfect.
    ---------------------------------------------------
    Love new things that look old, and old things, made to look new again!

  5. #15
    Tradesman s0litarys0ldier's Avatar
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    That is a good way to look at it!

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