Thread: Honing questions

Originally Posted by Phrank

I'm not getting the forehead slap, so I know I'm missing something important.

When I have put a pencil grid on the stone, I then use my DMT to lap the stone flat, with the idea being that once the pencil grid is gone, the stone is then flat i.,e properly "lapped", is this what you're saying Euclid440?

The forehead slap for me was the realization that if the grid does not disappear almost instantly (a couple of figure 8's?) that the grid removal may be more from the slurry - that could be filling a void/pocket.

If I'm correct (and please chime in, don't be shy) if the grid does not disappear quickly I should re-lap until it does.

I'm going to go pour "something brown" in to a tumbler and think about this...

When I was working myself through the basics of honing I had similar problems. The higher the grit the worse the edge seemed to be. Turns out, I was not maxing out each stone. I had to look really close under good magnification to see where I was falling short. I really wish I could convey to you what I see and what I look for before moving on to the next grit. The basic ideas can be shared but the fine details are learned on the fly. The only thing I can say is that it should look clean and even at the cutting edge before you move on. And when you do, it should again look clean and even before you move to the next. It's not really possible to convey the fine details.

Originally Posted by MJC

The forehead slap for me was the realization that if the grid does not disappear almost instantly (a couple of figure 8's?) that the grid removal may be more from the slurry - that could be filling a void/pocket.

If I'm correct (and please chime in, don't be shy) if the grid does not disappear quickly I should re-lap until it does.

I'm going to go pour "something brown" in to a tumbler and think about this...

Yes, exactly.

When I lap a new stone I grid it several times 4-5 spinning the stone 180 degrees, with each grid layout and lap from corner to corner and end to end.

If you lap a stone where you are raising a lot of slurry, that slurry alone will remove the pencil grid, especially if the grid is applied lightly.
I noticed this when lapping natural stones with loose grit. So I started marking hard natural stones with a sharpie, with is not as easy to wash off.

Once the stone is flat, you can quickly remove a new pencil grid, so it is not like you are endlessly lapping the stone. I also lap with progressively higher diamond plates, just draw a quick grid to make sure the stone is flat.

If the stone is flat, one lap up and down will remove the grid, completely. If you see low spots, that part of the stone has never touched the plate and will be much rougher than the lapped part.

N

Originally Posted by Euclid440

Yes, exactly.

When I lap a new stone I grid it several times 4-5 spinning the stone 180 degrees, with each grid layout and lap from corner to corner and end to end.

If you lap a stone where you are raising a lot of slurry, that slurry alone will remove the pencil grid, especially if the grid is applied lightly.
I noticed this when lapping natural stones with loose grit. So I started marking hard natural stones with a sharpie, with is not as easy to wash off.

Once the stone is flat, you can quickly remove a new pencil grid, so it is not like you are endlessly lapping the stone. I also lap with progressively higher diamond plates, just draw a quick grid to make sure the stone is flat.

If the stone is flat, one lap up and down will remove the grid, completely. If you see low spots, that part of the stone has never touched the plate and will be much rougher than the lapped part.

Awesome! I didn't realize that and was just lapping until all the marks were gone. Didn't realize about the slurry. Thanks!