Thread: bevel setting & honing a wedge?

I've seen my share of videos from the library, YouTube and other source's. Lynn's, gssixgun, toxIk and Lenard's are some of the best. But what I haven't run across, or may have missed in the countless hours of videos. Is the proper way to hone a wedge or 1/4 wedge blade. (No smiles here) Just st8 edges.

One would assume it should be straight forward like a hollow or extra hollow, but any "wedge honing" videos I've seen, refer to "smiling wedges".

Any help, advice or links to where I should bury my head? I've run around the video circuit enough, I think I've seen some videos 4x's before I realized I've seen it already.

Don't know if it is the proper way. I put three layers of tape on the spine and set the bevel and hone the razor. Like I said, don't know if I am correct but it works for me.

Originally Posted by bouschie

Don't know if it is the proper way. I put three layers of tape on the spine and set the bevel and hone the razor. Like I said, don't know if I am correct but it works for me.

I can only assume it has to do with spine width and blade size, I.e. 6/8, 7/8 ,13/16, and the calculations to determine the proper ang.......zzzzzz

But I want this to be fun or at least pleasant. I'm not a "math Asian". I'm sure in the 1800's it was just " slap the steel to stone" ,but I already have enough scars.

A wedge or hollow ground hones up more or less the same way. If you have a smiling blade of either type they hone with the same strokes or if they have straight edges they hone as per straight edges. That is disregarding any warps or twists. Where you can wind up having trouble with older wedges, I mean blades with very little concavity to them not 1/4 or 1/2 hollows, is it here is heavy hone wear and the geometry is all off. You may have to build up the spine width with layers of tape to get the geometry back in spec. After that they hone like anything else. Then again i ain't no expert.

Bob

Originally Posted by lethalgraphix

I can only assume it has to do with spine width and blade size, I.e. 6/8, 7/8 ,13/16, and the calculations to determine the proper ang.......zzzzzz

But I want this to be fun or at least pleasant. I'm not a "math Asian". I'm sure in the 1800's it was just " slap the steel to stone" ,but I already have enough scars.

You don't have to be a math genius. Just use the excel file found here http://www.coticule.be/wedges.html and plug in your measurements to find how many layers of tape you may need for a wedge.

Bob

I haven't honed as many razors as some of these guys but for me if there is little to no hone wear I use 1 layer of tape but it the hone wear is a little more I use 2 layers of tape. the tape I use is 3M 88 witch is about 8.5 thousandths thick. I've heard of thicker tape but where I live the 88 is the best I can find. while i'm setting the bevel I watch the tape closely and if it wears I change it often. after the bevel is set then the tape doesn't wear that much for me. anyway that's the way I do it.

Originally Posted by rhensley

I haven't honed as many razors as some of these guys but for me if there is little to no hone wear I use 1 layer of tape but it the hone wear is a little more I use 2 layers of tape. the tape I use is 3M 88 witch is about 8.5 thousandths thick. I've heard of thicker tape but where I live the 88 is the best I can find. while i'm setting the bevel I watch the tape closely and if it wears I change it often. after the bevel is set then the tape doesn't wear that much for me. anyway that's the way I do it.

This is what I thought, but could find no proof. The 2wedges I have little to no wear. The Joseph Rodgers has noticeable spine wear on one side only, but this wear is minor at best. I planned to do the single layer method, but there is no telling what the previous years of honing have done to the angle.

So I'll throw 1layer on and see how even the bevel shows and go from there.

I kept hearing stories of how hard wedges were compared to hollows, but this must be in particular to "smiling wedges" or wrapped blades.

I went through this just recently. I have trouble getting my wedges as sharp as my hollows. I feel with the combination of generally wider bevels and little to no blade flex, that wedges require a softer touch earlier in the honing process as well as a little extra time on each hone.

Well.....depends...on which you're talking about, a true wedge, i.e. a razor shaped like an axe head or a razor that is slightly hollowed but as stiff as a wedge?

If the first, and the spine doesn't lift enough to eliminate contact higher on the blade, then, "and this is me" I use 3 layers of tape and determine if the edge is being contacted. If not, or minimally and creating a very wide bevel, I'll use (not generally recommended...due to softness of the tape) 4 layers and carefully hone.

If 4 layers isn't enough.....sounds, IMHO, like a candidate for a re-grind!!

Late Edit: You mentioned a 1/4 hollow. It should hone and bevel set like any other grind, providing the spine hasn't been ground away by too much excessive or aggressive honing without tape!!



Regards,

Howard

2nd that. 3 layer start, see what's going on. maybe drop to 2 layers and stop. Thin bevel doesn't hurt anything.